Skip to Content

Don't miss our latest posts. Subscribe now to our gay travel newsletter

A romantic road trip in Northeast Argentina

A romantic road trip in Northeast Argentina

This is our itinerary for experiencing a romantic road trip through Northeast Argentina.

“Poor Niagara!”…so said the late Eleanor Roosevelt when she first came face to face with the almighty Iguazú Falls back in 1944.

The famous Falls are a bucket list destination for pretty much all travellers visiting Latin America. If it isn't, it sure as hell should be. You can stand for hours marvelling at this sheer force of nature, spell bound, your hair standing on end, whilst getting completely soaked from the powerful spray, but without a care in the world.

It's truly a mesmerising experience.

The Iguazú Falls are located in Northeast Argentina in the Misiones province, straddling the Brazilian border. Most visitors come to this region to visit the Iguazú falls before moving on to another destination.

However, the rest of Misiones, is home to some of the most unique natural phenomenons and ecosystems on earth; such as the incredible Moconá Falls and the peaceful Esteros del Iberá wetlands.


Sadly, due to the lack of transport options in the region, Moconá Falls and Esteros del Ibera are usually skipped. There are, however, excellent roads connecting each destination, making it the perfect road trip.

Following our very own romantic road trip across Misiones and Corrientes provinces, we've put together this itinerary to make the best of Northeast Argentina's wonders. 

Travel advice for LGTBQ community

Advice for LGBTQ travellers to Argentina

Argentina is a gay friendly country. It has progressive LGBTQ laws and in 2010 became the first in Latin America to legalise gay marriages! As a gay couple travelling, we never experienced any problems in Argentina and always got a double bed without questions, whether at a guesthouse or hotel. However, homophobia and the machismo attitude is still quite prevalent outside the main cities, so if heading to more rural areas or small towns/villages, we cautious of PDAs. Read more about what gay life in Argentina is like in our interview with LGBTQ local, Juan.

Day 1: pick up your car at Posadas airport

First of all, flights are expensive in Argentina, so do not expect bargain deals. We flew with Aerolinas from Buenos Aires to Posadas airport and paid $150 dollars each way for a 1.5 hour flight.

Buses are a good alternative to flying if you want to save money and have time to spare. From Buenos Aires, the bus takes around 14 hours to Posadas ($72-$100) or 20 hours to Puerto Iguazú ($85-$135).

For the car rental, any car will do. The roads to all the destinations proposed in this itinerary are well paved and a 4×4 is not required. 

Stefan pointing at the border of Argentina and Brazil on our road trip in Northeast Argentina.
Guess which country Stefan is pointing to?

Day 1-3: Posadas to Puerto Iguazú

The drive from Posadas airport to Puerto Iguazú is around 4-5 hours. Half way through, you will pass the little town of San Ignacio, famous for its Jesuit ruins.

1. Worth a stop: San Ignacio Jesuit ruins

This UNESCO site is one of the most important and best preserved Jesuit ruins in Latin America. Dating back to 1632, the San Ignacio Miní is one of many missions built by the Jesuits for the indigenous Guaraní communities to convert them using a very unique approach: mixing western culture with the Guaraní to produce a new one.

You don't need more than 2 hours to explore San Ignacio Miní. If you're tight with time, you can also visit the site on your way to the Moconá falls.

Parking is available and entry to the San Ignacio ruins costs 180 pesos ($12) per person. The ticket is valid for 15 days and includes entry to the surrounding missions as well.

Visiting the Jesuit Ruins at San Ignacio on our road trip in northeast Argentina.
Sebastien immersing himself within the Jesuit ruins at San Ignacio.

2. Where to stay in Puerto Iguazú

Puerto Iguazú is a quiet and laid back little town where people base themselves to see the Iguazú Falls. There are many decent options to stay in Puerto Iguazú. Here's a few of our favourites:


Amerian Portal Del Iguazú

For romantic sunset views stay at the Amerian Portal Hotel during your northeast Argentina road trip.

Why we love it

  • Amazing views
  • Spa and fitness facilities
  • 2 different on-site restaurants and bars
  • Located metres from the three-borders landmark

The Amerian Portal Del Iguazú sits on the Paraná river bank, overlooking Paraguay and Brazil. You also have great views of where the Paraná and Iguazú Rivers meet.

We stayed in their gorgeous suite, which offers incredible views across the rivers and the jungle beyond. The romantic sunset view we experienced every evening made it particularly special.

The hotel is located directly opposite the bus stop where you can get the public bus to the Iguazú National Park and the famous falls. It's also only metres away from the three-borders landmark; the spot where the borders of Brazil, Paraguay and Argentina all meet.

There are so many great facilities to enjoy here, like the spa, sauna, fitness centre and two different swimming pools, one indoor and the other outdoor. La Misíon restaurant serves up international dishes while the De Ios Ríos Grill offers traditional Argentinean barbecue. There's a rooftop bar open late and you can also enjoy drinks in the gardens or next to one of the pools.


Loi Suites Iguazú

Loi Suites Iguazú is a gorgeous place to stay near Iguazú Falls.

Why we love it

  • Lovely spa with a variety of treatments
  • Gourmet restaurant and a tiki bar
  • Just 15-minutes from Iguazú Falls
  • Gorgeous heated outdoor swimming pool

Loi Suites Iguazú is located just outside Puerto Iguazú town, right in the heart of the jungle and very near the Jasy Porã Guaraní village. Best of all, it's only a 15-minute drive to the Iguazú Falls!

For 2 nights, Loi Suites was our little oasis of luxury and relaxation. We particularly loved their sexy heated outdoor pool and the suspended bridges for walking among the trees.

There are a variety of rooms, suites and villas available; some with butler service and most with a hydro-tub on your own private balcony. The Namasthe Spa offers lots of pampering treatments focusing on aromatherapy and water as harmonising elements. You can relax in the sauna, Jacuzzi and Scottish shower or just book yourself a massage and facial.

We also thought the wood and stone decor throughout the hotel was beautiful. Naipi Restaurant serves delicious local cuisine and the Tiki bar is perfect for a light lunch or for cocktails at sunset. The tour desk is happy to help organise trekking and other excursions, which makes this a great base for exploring the Iriapú Jungle.

3. Iguazú National Park

The Iguazú Falls are one of the most incredible things we've ever seen in our travels. They were voted as one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World by a poll in November 2011.

A guided tour will help you make the most of your visit to the Iguazú National Park. If you decide to visit the park on your own, entrance fee is 330 pesos ($22) per person and half price for the second day.

The falls are a 2.5km (1.5 miles) towering mass of roaring water, comprising nearly 300 cascades, straddling the Argentinian and Brazilian border. The climax point, Devil's Throat will leave you stunned as you take in the immensity of the 80m waterfall drop to the cloudy abyss below. Tip: bring a light poncho – the splash is quite intense!

Viewing Iguazu Falls on a road trip in northeast Argentina
Sebastien admiring the intensity and power of the Iguazu Falls.

The ultimate romantic experience is to watch the Iguazú Falls during a full moon (called luna llega). Each month, and for only a few days, the National Park opens its doors by night to all visitors to witness this extraordinary show.

4. Not to miss: a visit to the Jasy Porã Guaraní tribe

The Jasy Porã (meaning beautiful moon in the Guaraní language) is one of the remaining indigenous Guaraní tribes in the Misiones province. Their community live in a secluded village outside of Puerto Iguazú.

We visited the Jasy Porã tribe while we where staying in the nearby Loi Suites. We met their cacique (the village official), learned about their traditions and took plenty of selfies with the young teenage Beliebers.

Hanging out with Guarani tribe members in Misiones during our road trip in northeast Argentina.
Stefan posing with the Guaraní Beliebers.

The Jasy Porã tribe were featured in a short documentary film, which you can view here (use password: karai). They offer organised tours, which we highly recommend to learn more about this ancient culture, and also sell beautiful handicrafts. The money you pay goes directly to their community.

To book tours to the Jasy Porã, contact Nazaret Pared of the Misiones Tourism Board.

5. Where to eat in Puerto Iguazú

Puerto Iguazú has plenty of excellent restaurants, all offering a variety of both Argentinian and international food:

  • A Piacere Parilla: one of our favourite restaurants because of the lively outdoor atmosphere and live music. Parillas are the steakhouses of Argentina and the place to come to get your fill of meat.
  • Aqva Restaurant: we came here to try the local specialty, the oily surubí freshwater fish, washed down with some divine caipirinhas. It made a nice break from all the meat we consumed during our travels in Argentina!
  • La Toscana: one of the best Italian restaurants in town, serving up delicious home made pasta dishes – check out the Pasta Casera section of the menu. The dishes are prepared in front of you on a massive wheel of parmesan cheese!
  • La Vaca Enamorada: one of the most highly rated restaurants in town, offering up yummy steaks and a very tasty chocolate mouse dessert. The extremely charismatic owner charmed the pants off Sebastien speaking to him in fluent French.
Sebastien's dinner near Iguazu during our road trip in northeast Argentina.
Sebastien's yummy steak dinner at La Vaca Enamorada in Puerto Iguazu.

Day 4-5: Puerto Iguazú to Moconá

Misiones province is not only home to the Iguazú falls, but also to the lush Yabotí biosphere, a 250,000 hectares protected reserve created by UNESCO in 1995. It is made of untouched pristine rainforests – in short, this is the Argentinian jungle. Moconá is also where you can see one of the most fascinating and unique natural phenomenons: the Moconá Falls.

We stayed at Don Moconá Virgin Lodge (see below), a beautiful lodge in the heart of the Yabotí biosphere with direct access to the Uruguay river and the Moconá falls. The roads from Puerto Iguazú to Don Moconá Virgin Lodge are in excellent state and the drive will take no more than 5 hours.

1. Worth a stop: Salto Encantado

If you have time, we recommend taking a break from the drive to visit Salto Encatada provincial park. It's located halfway between Puerto Iguazú and Don Moconá at Aristobulo del Valle. The park can also be visited on your way to Esteros del Iberá from Don Moconá Virgin Lodge.

The Salto Encatada is one of the most important protected areas in the province with a plethora of wildlife to marvel at, especially birds. The walkways are recently refurbished and ideal for getting into the heart of the parkland to gaze in awe at the magnificent waterfalls, cascades and surrounding wildlife.

Saltop Encatada is a must-see during a  road tip in northeast Argentina.
Sebastien stopping to admire the view around him at the Saltop Encatada.

2. Where to stay?


Don Moconá Virgin Lodge

Road-tripping in Argentina - sleep in a romantic treehouse bungalow at the Don Mocona Virgin Lodge.

Why we love it

  • Feel like you're sleeping in a treehouse!
  • Watch the jungle wake up from your bungalow
  • Lots of fun activities included in room rate
  • Lovely outdoor pool with jungle views

We based ourselves at Don Moconá Virgin Lodge for 2 nights, a jungle lodge set in the heart of the Yabotí biosphere and close to the Moconá falls. Our wooden bungalow was surrounded by selva (jungle), overlooking the tranquil Yabotí River.

In the morning, we would wake up to bird songs, look out from our balcony and watch the jungle come to life. There is no mobile network here and very little internet access, so you really are cut off from reality.

The Don Moconá Virgin Lodge has an excellent in house restaurant offering affordable meals. This is the place to try out local specialties of the region like Paraguayan soup (more like a quiche than an actual soup), the pacú freshwater fish and palmitos (palm heart vegetable harvested from palm trees). To find out more, check out our article about our 10 favourite Argentinian foods.

Room rates include a variety of outdoor activities like jungle trekking, rappel, tubing and cycling; so there's plenty to keep you active! There's also a magical covered outdoor swimming pool to relax in while you gaze across the jungle.

3. The Moconá Falls (Saltos del Moconá)

The Saltos del Moconá lie on the Uruguay River in the Misiones province and on the border between Argentina and Brazil.

They are formed by the presence of a natural fault running parallel to the river bed causing the water to fall down from one side of the river to the other, forming a 3km (1.8 miles) long waterfall. This makes the Moconá Falls unique as it is perhaps the only set of waterfalls in the world to run parallel to the river rather than perpendicular.

The height of the river water level determines whether you can see the falls and as such they are not visible for around 150 days of the year.

If you stay at Don Moconá Virgin lodge (or a nearby guesthouse), they will be able to arrange a visit to the Moconá Falls.

Visiting Mocona Falls on a road trip in northeast Argentina.
The less talked about Moconá Falls.

4. The Yabotí Biosphere: the Argentinian jungle

The Yaboti Biosphere is the area surrounding the Moconá Falls. It is a UNESCO listed biosphere reserve with a rich sub-tropical forest ecosystem, a large diversity of fauna and many endangered species of reptiles, birds and mammals.

Exploring the Mocona jungle during our road trip in northeast Argentina.
Et voila: an endangered species spotted- a Nomadic Seby!

5. Other activities

Don Moconá Virgin Lodge offers a wide variety of activities such as trekking, kayaking, tubing, rappeling and ziplining. Their English speaking guides are passionate and extremely knowledgeable about the Yabotí biosphere.

Ziplining over the jungle was one of our favourite experiences… The feeling of just letting go and being carried across the rainforest is so liberating!

Mocona jungle ziplining is a fun activity to do during your road trip in northeast Argentina.
Stefan flying high up above in the Moconá jungle on a zipline

Day 6-7: Don Moconá to Esteros del Iberá

Esteros del Iberá is the second largest wetland in the world after Brazil's Pantanal and the place to see monkeys, caimans, capybara rodents and over 350 species of birds.

Colonia Carlos Pellegrini is the biggest village in Esteros del Iberá and usually the main gateway to the wetlands. The drive to Colonia Carlos Pellegrini can be a challenging one, better done with a 4×4. Puerto Valle however, is an excellent place to experience the Iberá wetlands because it sits at the Northern tip, with excellent road access, so you can reach it using any vehicle.

The drive from Don Moconá Virgin Lodge to Puerto Valle should take around 4-5 hours.

1. Stay at the exclusive Puerto Valle


Puerto Valle

Puerto Valle is the perfect romantic place for gay couples to stay while travelling through northeastern Argentina.

Why we love it

  • Delicious gourmet meals
  • Perfect location for experiencing wildlife
  • Horse riding through the grounds
  • Beautiful rustic colonial-style decor

Puerto Valle is a luxury hotel located on the bank of the Paraná River, originally an Argentinian estancia (cattle ranch) from the 1860s.

This is the perfect place to relax, connect with nature and discover the wildlife around the Iberá wetlands. We cannot recommend it highly enough.

The pool set in the huge gardens is an enchanting spot to enjoy the views of the river.

In addition to exploring the Iberá wetlands, there are many other activities guests can enjoy as part of the experience. We particularly liked spotting wildlife off the channels of the Paraná River whilst sipping mate, and horse riding through the impressive grounds of the Puerto Valle estancia.

Meals were another highlight of our stay. Every single serving was a gourmet experience, cooked to perfection and beautifully presented. This included a mix of international and local specialties like the pacú freshwater fish with criolla salad. Everything was filling, healthy and never too heavy.

You can read more about our adventures in Esteros del Iberá in our article about this hidden gem of Argentina on Mr Hudson Explores.

2. Exploring Esteros del Iberá

Puerto Valle has an exclusive access point to Esteros del Iberá, where their private boat is docked. We ventured deep into the Laguna Valle with their excellent guide Ezequiel.

Along the way, we spotted a few capybaras (the world's largest rodents) and many caimans.

A caiman spotted at Esteros del Ibera during a road trip in northeast Argentina.
One of many caiman spotted at the Ibera wetlands.

Eventually we reached a man made wooden dock right in the heart of the lagoon, where we stopped to watch the sunset while sipping mate and munching on chipa cheese snacks.

There was nobody around, just us and the wetlands. An experience we'll never forget!

Day 7: Esteros del Iberá to Posadas airport

The final drive from Esteros del Iberá to Posadas airport is simple and takes no more than 1 hour.

If you have time to spare and want to up your country count, you could take the bus from Posadas to the nearby Paraguayan town called Encarnación. It's a good taster of how laid back Paraguay is, but outside the famous carnival season in February, there's little to write home about.

The Encarnacion Posadas bus to Paraguay.
Seby getting ready to board the bus to Encarnación in Paraguay.

We used Posadas airport as our start/end point, but you can also use Puerto Iguazú and follow the same 7 nights itinerary proposed above.

The main point to bear in mind is to start and end in the same place, whether it's Posadas or Puerto Iguazú. If you start at one and drop the car off at the other, you'll have to pay a $200 surcharge.

We created this map showing the main stops of our road trip as well as the places we stayed at:

Happy travels are safe travels

We recommend you always take out travel insurance before your next vacation. What happens if you suffer from illness, injury, theft or a cancellation? With travel insurance, you can have peace of mind and not worry. We love World Nomads travel insurance and have been using it for years. Their comprehensive coverage is second to none and their online claims process is very user friendly.

This post may contain affiliate links which means if you make a purchase through one of these links, we will receive a small commission. Read our disclosure for more info.
Gay travel guide to Cordoba in Argentina
Gay Córdoba: a pink guide to Argentina's second city
← Read Last Post
Our selection of the best unique and gay friendly places to stay in Buenos Aires, Argentina
10 unique gay hotels in Buenos Aires
Read Next Post →
Sebastien Chaneac

Sebastien is the co-founder, editor and author of He is a tech geek, a total travel nerd and a food enthusiast. He spends most of his time planning Nomadic Boys' travels meticulously right down to the minute details and if not, he'll probably be cooking. Sebastien has travelled to over 80 countries with his partner in crime and the love of his life, Stefan. He regularly shares his expertise of what it’s like travelling as a gay couple both on Nomadic Boys and on prominent publications ranging from Pink News, Matador, The San Francisco Chronicle, The Guardian and many more. Originally from France, Sebastien moved to London in the early 2000s where he pursued a career as a computer programmer for Thompson Reuters and Bloomberg. He subsequently left it all to explore his passion for travelling around the world with Stefan to hand, and thus Nomadic Boys was born. Find out more about Nomadic Boys.