Gay India: our ultimate gay guide for LGBTQ travelers

What can we say about Delhi that will capture its essence? It's chaotic. It's loud. It's colorful. It's smelly. It's jarring! Filled with unexpected surprises. It is a place like no other. Whistle on down to the gay scene, and you’ll find the alluring Delhi madness, only with the heightened camp that we gays bring. For nightlife, you can’t go wrong with bars like Depot 48. Every Tuesday is ‘Pink’ in their eyes, with patrons throwing on their best outfits and dancing the night away. Another awesome gay night out in Delhi is “Kitty-Su” on Thursday evenings in The Lalit.

Home to the country’s biggest film industry, one of the world’s largest tropical forests, and a thriving fashion epicenter, Mumbai is an expansive city that 18 million people call home. There are regular gay meetups and gatherings organized by the Gay Bombay group, as well as gay parties by Salvation Star. For nightlife, there is no better place to head out to than the Beeyond Neighbourhood Bar. Kitty Su also has a home here, along with other awesome queer friendly bars like The Ghetto and Cafe Mondegar.

Bangalore is famously nicknamed the Silicon Valley of India, due to the high number of multinational IT companies based here. The city is thriving with young, hot people, fresh out of college, making it a very tolerant place. The gay scene is small but very active. We came by lovely spots like the Pink Sky Bar and the Chin Lung resto-bar. There is no better place to get a view of the Bangalore skyline than the Pink Sky Bar. The high street is filled with luxury boutiques, gourmet restaurants, and premium fashion. We were astounded looking at the price tags but hey, we gals can dream, right?

We’ve been very cosmopolitan-focused so far with our gay-friendly Indian cities. But you know it wouldn’t be a true Nomadic Boys trip without a visit to a beach. With Goa, there are beaches in their plenitude. The coastline stretches on for miles, with smooth, golden sands, tropical trees, and clear blue ocean waters. There are no real gay bars but there are some gay friendly places to hang out. Love Passion Karma is a waterfront club that's amazing for dancing and has some really cool but slightly bizarre decor. SINQ is a very trendy bar with a poolside deck, lounge, microbrewery, and nightclub.

Chennai has one of the biggest, brightest, and lengthiest Pride marches in all of India – so it holds a special place in our hearts for that reason alone. When exploring, we found some LGBTQ-friendly hotspots to hang out in, meet gay and gay-friendly locals and act like our usual, campy selves. Chennai doesn’t have as vast a gay scene as some of the other cities, so be careful about picking where to go. Some places are quite open and tolerant, but that doesn’t go for bars in Chennai across the board. Most gay spaces in this city are very under the radar still, so you'll need to connect with gay locals on Grindr and Instagram to get the latest scoop.

Pune is the epicenter of all things university, business, and youth. So much so that it is considered the ‘new India’. And with the majority of young Indians in support of marriage for all, you can be sure that this is a city that is of keen LGBTQ interest. One place to check out is the Celebrity Country Club, a fabulous spot with a sauna and spa that caters to lots of gay or bi men. The views from the room look stunning, overlooking the lush gardens and natural surroundings. The Farmaaish Lounge and Bar throws occasional LGBTQ nights known as “MIST”. Entry rules are quite strict to ensure spaces are kept as queer-friendly as possible.

Much like the Emerald City that lies in the heart of Oz, the Taj Mahal holds a magical allure that captures the imaginations of people from all around the world. Who doesn’t aspire to visit the Taj Mahal one day? We decided to make that dream become reality – and oh boy were we glad we did! Its ivory-white walls sit on the south bank of the Yamuna river in the Agra countryside. The Taj Mahal contains a tomb, which contains the body of the favorite wife of Shah Jahan, the Mughal Emperor. It was built as a tribute to her, taking over 22 years and the hard work of 20,000 artisans to finish. The ultimate sign of true love!

The first thing you should know is that Delhi is basically eight cities combined into one. Many of these cities are built on top of the ruins of its predecessor, leaving ancient remnants dotted throughout. An example of this is the Red Fort. Having once served as the residence of the Mughal Emperors, Delhi's Red Fort consists of several buildings, temples, and gardens. It is surrounded by a wall that stretches 18 meters over the ground. The fort is speculated to house the bodies of prisoners, which is said to be for luck. If you're short on time you can buy a combi-ticket for Red Fort, Humayun's Tomb, and the Qutub Minar.

Red is daed. Blue is taboo. Yellow's too mellow. Brown makes us frown. If we could paint a city in just one color, we’d go for pink. Hence why we fell head over heels for Jaipur the Pink City! The pink walls of the City Palace and temples add an almost therapeutic quality to this otherwise quite chaotic side city. Dodging motorbikes, rickshaws, men riding camels, and kids chasing each other, it's alive with character. It's also known for being the location of the ‘Best Exotic Marigold Hotel’ starring legendary actresses Judi Dench and Maggie Smith. From those two broads to us two broads, Jaipur is as wonderful as it looks on the big screen. 

If heading to Jaipur, we recommend exploring more of the state of Rajasthan. Udaipur, known as the White City, is considered one of the most romantic places in India. It is very much a city that feels as if it was made for queens! The City Palace Museum has tons of heirlooms, portraits, and memorabilia from the royal family – be prepared to have some serious envy. Don't miss out on exploring some of Udaipur's most popular attractions, like the huge UNESCO World Heritage Site Kumbhalgarh Fort and the stunning Jain Temple in Ranakpur – one of the five holiest Jain shrines in India.

We try not to pick favorites. But if you forced us to answer what our favorite place in India was, it would be Varanasi. It's a fascinating city where people come to bathe in the sacred Ganges river, as Varanasi is considered one of the holiest places for Hindus. As well as bathing, and washing clothes, Hindus cremate their lost loved ones beside the Ganges and then scatter the ashes onto the waters as well. As such a spiritual place, yoga and meditation are very popular in Varanasi, so of course, we gave that a try too. Make sure you read more about our time in Varanasi if you're thinking of visiting this unique place.

In Khajuraho, there is a group of temples believed to have been built sometime around 950 AD. Within the temples are displays of statues depicting humans in all kinds of forms, states, and emotions! Many are open to interpretation but some are very clear in what they are trying to express. You may spot some super suggestive sculptures, many of which are gay gay gay! Of course, there is more to this unique temple than just the infamous statues, but we can't help admitting that this was the main reason we visited! You can join a guided tour to visit the temples and find out all about their history, choosing from either a morning or afternoon departure.

If there was ever a place to go and recharge, it was Goa. Goa's coast is, of course, the most popular area for tourists, with so many stunning beaches as well as bars and nightclubs for partying. While it's great for a lazy day on the beach, we loved Goa for the many wonderful watersports on offer, from jet-skiing to parasailing and even banana boat rides! If crowds and parties are not your thing, CNN-Travel rates Goa's Patnem Beach as one of the top 20 beaches in Asia. It's much less crowded (and less expensive) than the famous Palolem Beach, so you can enjoy a spot of sunrise yoga on the sand in solitude.

Generally, when one thinks of India they think of heat and noise, but in the north of India are some of the most stunning, peaceful landscapes in the country. The Ladakh region is sparse, beautiful, and one of our favorite places to visit in the whole country. Ladakh culture is very similar to Tibetan culture (the two share a border), so it's perfect if you want to explore Buddhist monasteries or go hiking in the mountains. The city of Leh is a must-visit if only so you can use it as a trekking base to acclimatize before going to higher altitudes. There are also charming old streets to wander in, bustling markets, and Leh Palace – an interesting example of medieval Tibetan architecture.

Hampi is an alluring landscape, filled with temples and ancient buildings, boulders, and mountainous terrain. A group of 500 monuments makes up the UNESCO World Heritage Site, as they are all that is left of the last capital of the last great Hindu Kingdom of Vijayanagar. Hampi was the main pilgrimage center for the Hindu religion, so nowadays you can visit to explore the remnants of incredible temples, shrines, halls, forts, water structures, royal elephant stables, and more. The whole place is a massive open-air museum! To really experience the magic, you can join this two-day tour to Hampi from nearby Goa.

The Ajanta caves date back to the 2nd century and consist of around 30 rock-cut cave monuments. Described as some of the finest examples of Indian art, visitors will find wall paintings and sculptures. There are also some fascinating examples of storytelling through the paintings. From the births and reincarnations of Buddha to the various other Gods and deities who embody Hinduism. It is no wonder monks have used the caves as a place of refuge and solace. We recommend joining a tour to the Ajanta Caves from nearby Aurangabad as the roads to get there are pretty rough – let someone else do the driving!

Chennai is a sweltering, bustling, urban city that might not be high on your list of places to visit in India. But we think you'll be missing out if you don't go! We've already mentioned Chennai's fabulous Pride festival and gay scene, but there's plenty more to explore if you're not visiting during Pride season. Chennai is home to the world's second-longest urban beach in the world, so you can spend some time enjoying the sun and sand when you need a break from the city. You can join a tour of Chennai to visit the beach as well as the famous St. George Fort and the amazing architectural style of the Kapaleeshwarar Temple.

You can visit Kerala for many reasons. Its fabulous Pride event that it holds every August, its exquisite food, and kind-hearted people. But the main excuse for stopping in Kerala is its backwaters area. One of the highlights from our entire Indian trip was experiencing an overnight cruise on a houseboat and sailing down the network of connected rivers, lakes, and canals. It was uber-romantic, letting us see the many gorgeous villages along the Kerala coast, meet locals and enjoy a comfortable place to relax. You're also treated to delicious Indian cuisine and drinks – but none of that compares to the warm hospitality of the Keralans.

If you've not seen a Bollywood movie, then you need to! We guarantee you'll quickly fall in love with India – full of color, drama, super camp music, and the highlight, the dancing! All those high-energy “I'm changing a lightbulb!” moves – we LOVE it! So, as soon as we hit the ground in Delhi, we found an ace dance studio that specializes in teaching Bangra and other Indian dances. The Delhi Dance Academy is the place to go. Trust us – you'll LOVE it! Plus – you get an awesome takeaway video of your day to share with your friends and family.

Lovers of all things colorful will probably be dying to visit India during the riot of color that is Holi. With Out Adventures you can join a tour that takes place in the middle of the Holi Festival so that you can experience all the wonderful madness of the Hindu festival of colors with other gay travelers. Holi is a celebration of spring, so this tour takes place every year in February/March. You'll be traveling with other gay men through the cities of Delhi, Agra, Jaipur, and more, with plenty of time to sightsee famous spots like the Taj Mahal.

Can't get enough of the idea of Holi? Well, Zoom Vacations are also offering an India Holi Highlights tour every February and March. One major difference with this group tour is that you'll actually get to celebrate the festival of Holi at the grand Umaid Bhawan Palace with His Highness and other members of the Royal family of Jodhpur. While technically Gaj Singh II was stripped of his royal title when he was 23, he has gone on to shape Rajasthan as a major tourist destination. As well as exploring this majestic region on your tour, you'll also have the opportunity to visit the Taj Mahal and lots of other incredible sights.

Do you think you know what an Indian curry tastes like because of your Friday night takeaway? Oh, honey, jog on…! Authentic curries are creamier, hotter, and tastier than you could ever have dreamed. Depending on whatever region you're traveling through, you’ll find many different kinds of curries. Those in the north take a page from the book of the Persians, filling their curry dishes with tandoori and parathas. This helps give it a sweet taste. Whereas in the south, curries are very hot and can feature seafood. There are so many variations, including meats, lentils, and other veggie-based dishes.  

Tandoori Chicken gets its name from where it's cooked. The chicken is roasted inside a special cylinder clay oven known as a tandoor and is marinated in yogurt and mixed spices (usually garam masala, garlic, ginger, and cayenne pepper). It's this oven that helps create the signature smoky flavor of Tandoori. It is fabulous with curries or other sauce-based dishes and is made even better with the addition of some freshly baked naan bread on the side. We found tandoori chicken very easy to come by in any place we went to but also noticed just how different each region makes its own tandoori spice mix. 

One of our personal favorite Indian dishes is Matar Paneer. I mean, can you blame us? It combines cheese with curry! We’re obsessed! It is made using the Indian cheese of Paneer. The paneer is mixed with peas, garam masala, and a tomato-based sauce to create this delicious vegetarian meal. Sometimes it's also made with potato, corn, yogurt, or cream, and served with naan bread, roti, or rice. Matar Paneer is a wonderfully comforting home-style meal since it uses such simple ingredients but is still so warming and yummy!

Sambar is usually served as a main course in southern India. A type of chowder, it is typically made from lentils and cooked using a broth. On the side, you'll usually get some Dosas, which are made from a kind of rice batter. These feel so smooth and light! You eat them by wrapping them around meats or any other desired filling. To top this off is the Idlis. These are steamed savory cakes made from steamed lentils and rice. They're perfect for dipping into those spicy sambal sauces. Most people in south India will commonly eat Idlis for breakfast.

Wake up to some Puttu! One of the most popular breakfast dishes in Kerala (and also in Sri Lanka), Puttu is made from steamed cylinders of ground rice, which are then layered with coconut shavings. We also like it with sweet or savory fillings on the inside, especially some banana at breakfast time along with our coffee. It can be enjoyed hot or cold, depending on the time of day you are having it. Puttu is interesting to make as well since you generally need to use a special metal puttu kutti vessel with two sections. In the alternative, you can also use a pressure cooker in a pinch.

We know what you're thinking, why would anyone want to eat something that sounds like barf?! But Barfi is an Indian sweet that is made from condensed milk. The name actually comes from the Persian word barf, which means “snow”. There are different types of barfi including badam, which is made from almonds, pista (pistachios), and kaaju (cashew nuts), so definitely a good source of protein for any gym bunnies who are bulking. Fruits are also used to enhance the flavor, particularly mango and coconut, as well as spices like cardamom.

No, not the dog! Lassi (without the e) is the ultimate Indian thirst-quencher. It's a yogurt-based drink that can be enjoyed either salted or sweet. We liked having it alongside our breakfast or as an accompaniment to a spicy Vindaloo curry. Its creamy and cool texture really hit the spot when we were craving something sugary but didn’t want to gorge on anything too unhealthy. There are many different varieties of Lassi such as mango, coconut, and rosewater. One of the most unique to look out for is the rich saffron-flavored lassis of Rajasthan.

It wouldn’t be a true trip to India unless we indulged in one of India’s most beloved exports – tea. Plus, as gay men we are automatically wired to seek out the hottest tea there is – though that is technically a different kind of tea! Masala Chai is an Indian milk tea that is made by brewing black tea and then flavoring it with a mixture of aromatic spices. Chai was originally made using green cardamom pods, cinnamon sticks, ground cloves, ground ginger, and black peppercorns. Nowadays a ‘chai latte' is a popular drink around the world, although the original is definitely the best!

Samosas are a delicious Indian appetizer or snack that comes in the form of a deep-fried pastry. They're usually filled with a savory filling, like potatoes, onions, meat, lentils, or peas. Every region in India has its own special way of making it, with some places even opting to make it super spicy for added fun. One of the tastiest we tried was in Hyderabad, which has mincemeat filling with a subtle sweet taste. Depending on the region where they're made, samosas can also come in a variety of shapes, usually triangles, cones, or half-moons. They're often served with chutney, another yummy Indian staple.

Biryani is another curry-based dish. The word “biryani” comes from the Persian word “Birian”, which means ‘fried before cooking', and Birinj, which is the Persian word for ‘rice'. Biryani differs from just ‘curry with rice' in that the curry and rice are cooked separately, then layered together before being cooked again. Usually made with the addition of chicken, beef, or pork, it's sometimes made with goat, prawns, or fish as well. Biryani can also fall anywhere on the scale in terms of hotness, with spices like nutmeg, pepper, cloves, cardamom, and chilies to spice it. We personally like ours on the hotter side – if we wanted mild, we’d have stayed in London (sorry, not sorry)!

If we could only live off one food group for the rest of our lives, it would be garlic naan bread. It's super filling, very tasty, and oh so very unhealthy! Naan bread from India is definitely one of our favorite kinds, a type of leavened bread that is baked flat and goes alongside many Indian dishes, especially curries. We love scooping up some of the food into the bread, allowing us to bite into a cacophony of texture and taste. In India, you may often find Naan stuffed with different fillings, used like a wrap or even with toppings. It's just so versatile but always delicious!

Goa called and they wanted to let us know that Vindaloo is their favorite curry! It's also probably the closest to what British people would determine as “a curry”. It's traditionally made with pork, which is then marinated in palm vinegar and garlic, with dried red chili peppers added later. A Vindaloo curry is something you can almost always find on the menu at an Indian restaurant in London since it was brought back by the British when they occupied India. It's a spicy, fiery dish – perfect for when you feel like you're getting a cold and need a hot curry to clear those sinuses out!

Ok, if you're from the UK then you might think ‘chicken tikka masala' when you hear Chicken Tikka but don't get them confused! Chicken Tikka Masala is a type of chicken curry with an orange sauce, but Chicken Tikka is a dish where chicken is cooked on skewers over a special kind of brazier called an angeethi. So it's essentially like an Indian chicken kebab! I mean, if you're making Chicken Tikka Masala, then making the Chicken Tikka is the first step, but we loved eating these mouthwatering sticks of chicken as they are, usually served as an appetizer.

Travel insurance: Sometimes when you're traveling, things just don't go as you want them to. Whether that's an injury or illness, or just a canceled flight leaving you stranded, we recommend all travelers to India make sure they're protected with adequate travel insurance. We love using Heymondo Travel Insurance because their coverage is so comprehensive and affordable, plus it's easy to make a claim online when you need to.

How to get there: Most travelers will arrive in India by flying into one of the International Airports of Delhi or Mumbai. You can also travel into the country overland from Nepal, Pakistan, Bangladesh, or Bhutan, but flying is definitely the easiest and safest option with the border disputes, etc. We flew into the Chhatrapati Shivaji International Airport which is close to Mumbai, then organized a private transfer from the airport to our hotel. We always find this to be the easiest thing to do when first arriving in a new destination, so we can relax and not have to juggle luggage on unfamiliar public transport, especially if we're jetlagged!

Visa requirements: Travellers from all countries outside of India do need a valid tourist visa in order to enter the country. US citizens can get 6-month, 5-year, or 10-year tourist visas, but travelers from most other countries can only stay for up to six months on the tourist visa. Check your visa requirements and apply for your India tourist visa here.

Getting around: India is big (duh) so there are lots of different ways to travel within the country. The train network, in particular, is almost a classic experience you need to have in India and works much better than you might think. You can also fly between regional cities, catch buses or even travel by boat. Here's a more detailed guide on getting around within India.

Vaccinations: All travelers to India should make sure they're up to date with routine vaccinations along with getting ones for Hepatitis A and Typhoid. Depending on which part of the country you're planning to visit, what you will be doing and where you are traveling from, you may also need further vaccinations for things like Cholera, Malaria, Rabies, Hepatitis B or Yellow Fever. Here is the latest vaccination advice from the CDC but make sure you also check with your doctor before you travel.

Currency: The currency used in India is the Indian rupee which uses the code INR and the symbol ₹. $1 US converts to around ₹71.23, £1 will give you about ₹92.66 and €1 converts to roughly ₹78.66.

Tipping culture: Tips in India are called baksheesh, but the rules for tipping are somewhat murky. Generally, you would only tip for extra good service, but in places like hotels, it's expected that you would tip someone for carrying your bags or valeting your car. Some restaurants might include a service charge, some might not. In general, the more touristy a destination the more tipping is expected, but you can read this guide to tipping in India for more nuanced information.

Internet access: Most hotels, restaurants, cafes and hostels in India will offer free WiFi or you can always head to an internet cafe to get online. Do be aware that the free WiFi might not always be terribly fast, so if you want reliable access or have a lot of work to do, you might want to bring a portable WiFi device with you.

Online privacy: Gay dating apps like Grindr or Scruff aren't blocked in India, but do be aware of instances of catfishing if you're planning to use them. If you want to use the internet securely we recommend using a VPN like those provided by ExpressVPN. They give you security at an affordable price and are very reliable as well.

Accommodation: We definitely recommend using Booking.com when searching for the best accommodation in India. They have all the best choices and many listings offer free cancellation if needed. Their online customer service is excellent and available 24/7, plus it's easy to make all your bookings online.

Sightseeing and adventure: We also use, love and recommend GetYourGuide when looking for fun things to do in India! They have so many exciting tours, activities and classes available for all the best prices. The online booking system is also easy to use and their excellent customer support is available 24/7.

When to visit: India is such a big country that the weather can be varied no matter what time of year you visit. However, the cool, dry season between November and March is generally the best time for most parts of the country. If you're not used to humidity and heat, then the monsoon season between June – September is not going to be fun, apart from in the mountainous northern regions.