Gay Iran: 6 tips for gay travellers visiting Iran

Stefan Arestis

This is a guest post by fellow gay blogger Michael Demmons of the TheRTWGuys travel blog:

Iran's human rights record is bad. There is no sugar-coating that. When it comes to gay people, it's almost as bad as it gets, just like other places in the Middle East, such as Dubai and Abu Dhabi. Most LGBTQ people who follow the news know the terrible punishments that Iran has imposed for people even suspected of being gay.

Some human rights organisations say that between 4,000-6,000 gay men and lesbians have been executed in Iran since 1979. As recently as April 2017, 30 gay men were arrested in the Isfahan province.

Transgender people fare no better. The only “bright”(!) side is that being transsexual is legal in Iran, but only if accompanied by a gender reassignment surgery. Surprisingly, that surgery can be partially covered by the government. In fact, after Thailand, Iran carries out the most sex reassignment surgeries than any other country in the world.

Is Iran safe for gay citizens? Probably not in general.

Is Iran safe for gay tourists? That's a little more complicated.

Don't forget…

Gay dating apps such as Grindr or Scruff are blocked in Iran. Before heading off, make sure you get a VPN which will not only give you full access to all your favourite apps and websites, which are otherwise blocked in Iran, but you will also be surfing the Net anonymously.

Should you boycott Iran?

I am generally opposed to people who say you should boycott countries for human rights issues. Why? Because when it comes to issues like gay rights, I think it's far more productive to travel to these countries, find gay friendly people and businesses (if you can) and support them with your tourist cash. Check out the Nomadic Boys' article about what it's like travelling as a gay couple in Asia, in which they explored this argument in detail.

Plus, in many countries with anti-LGBT policies, human rights violations against gay people generally happen with the citizens of those countries – not tourists.

I was recently in Iran for about 10 days. I really didn't get the sense that gay issues were a top concern for the people who lived there. Iranians are mostly concerned about inflation and putting food on their tables. They probably don't give much thought to gay people – if they think of them at all.

Moreover, it's important to remember that you're going there on vacation – not to advocate for gay rights or to live out your life as you would if you were at home. You're going to visit Persepolis and Tehran and Shiraz, not to participate in a parade.

That said, you have some decisions to make before you go.

Before I embarked on my trip, one of the main concerns of my friends and family was that I would be a gay guy travelling to a country with such strict laws against it.

My usual response was to laugh and say, “Well, I don’t intend to make out with guys in the street.” It was my way of setting the other person and, to a certain extent, myself, at ease.

But when it comes right down to it, you're just going on vacation.

Gay Iran tips for gay travellers
Michael at the Azadi Tower in Tehran

Three rules for visiting Iran

It probably goes without saying that when you visit Iran, you have to keep the “gay” part of your life hidden. That means you have to decide if you can do these 3 things:

i. Avoid public romantic displays of affection

For me this was easy because I was travelling alone, so I had no one to show affection with. My husband didn't travel with me. And even if he did, we're not really people who show much affection in public anyway.

When you're in Iran, you'll often see men holding hands, like you would in many South Asian countries like India and Nepal. It's very common here amongst straight men. However as a Westerner, you should probably avoid doing this.

You don't have to feel too bad about this though. Public displays of affection by couples are generally discouraged, even for straight couples.

ii. Keep your sexual orientation private

The second part was a little harder. Several Iranians asked me, “Are you married?” I simply said “no” (and hoped they didn't notice the indent on my ring finger from my wedding ring, which I left behind).

Did I feel like I was betraying my relationship a bit in this respect? Yes. I didn’t like to say I wasn’t married. But the reality is, you don’t want to have to answer the follow-up questions because those answers will necessarily be lies.

Saying, “Yes! I am. My husband is at home,” might very well be OK with some younger Iranians, but you don’t want to take the chance that you’re talking to a (rare) religious fundamentalist who will make trouble for you.

iii. For couples, refrain from telling people you're together

If you're travelling as a couple, it's obviously a little more difficult to follow any of the three rules. Again it's a decision you're going to have to make before you go – one that might involve breaking a few “couples” habits. If you’re travelling alone, like I did, it’s easy.

Holding hands while walking down the street, the selfie while one gives the other a peck on the cheek. Break those habits for the couple of weeks you’ll be there.

I was recently on an Iranian expats Facebook group (which I highly recommend joining!) and saw a post from a young man in Australia wondering if he and his partner would have issues. Their answer to the Australian was  an overwhelming “no”, but as long as he followed the rules, which I've summarised above.

Gay Iran tips for LGBTQ travellers
A Pink Mosque! Located in Shiraz (aka The Nasir al-Mulk Mosque)

Getting an Iranian visa

When you fill out your visa application form, one of the questions is, “Are you married?”, to which you should check “no”.

Yes, it's a lie, but if you're serious about going, then you don't have a choice.

And to be frank, Iran doesn't recognise marriage between same sex couples anyway, so it’s not really a lie to them (if that makes you feel better!) So tick the “single” box. You may even wish to leave your wedding rings at home, if you wear them.

For more information, check out my in-depth post about how to get an Iranian visa if you’re Canadian or American.

Gay Iran visa application

Check your social media

Be aware of what's on your social media before you go to Iran. Have you been critical of the Iranian government on Facebook? Do you post a lot of gay-themed photos or stories on Instagram? Do you re-tweet anti-Iran regime news stories or pro-LGBT links?

If you do, then you need to be very careful. You don't want this to come up while applying for an Iranian tourist visa.

During the visa process, I was never asked about social media. Recently though, I was contacted by a gay couple who told me that they were asked for their Facebook and Twitter profiles during the visa application process. Rohit from this gay couple asked:

So, while we're applying for the Iranian visa, they are asking for our Facebook / Twitter profile. That had me worried, as we have photos on there that show us being married.

So, what do you do?

i. Adjust your privacy settings

First, wait to see if anyone asks to see your social media profiles. They may never ask. If they do though, you may wish to play with your Facebook privacy settings to make albums or photos private if you think they may raise any concerns.

ii. Temporarily deactivate your profile

Personally, I would go farther than that. Deactivate your Facebook profile before you apply for the visa and reactivate it when you get home. Also, delete any tweets and Instagram posts that are critical of Iran or are super gay-themed.

If you want to go to Iran, you have to do what you have to do…!

Gay Iran tips for LGBTQ travellers
The Tomb of Hafetz in Shiraz

Checking into hotels

When you check into your hotel as a gay couple, the likelihood is that no one is going to ask you if you’re a couple. They’re just going to assume you’re two men travelling together. No one is going to question you about it!

Having said that, they will likely put you in a room with two separate beds, so you have to be willing to either sleep apart, or push your beds together.

It's also worth noting that of the 4 hotels I stayed at, only one of them was what I would consider fairly soundproof. If you are going to engage in any hotel room fun, keep that in mind!

Enjoy your visit!

I was in Iran for nearly 10 days. That was a pretty short trip, and it was a guided tour. Yet there was never once where I felt the least bit unsafe.

I walked around the cities at night. I even spoke to fellow western guests on my tour about my husband, though I was very selective in what I talked about and to whom I spoke with.

The bottom line is that if you choose to visit Iran, you can be gay; you just can't act gay. It's going to feel a bit like the days before you came out – telling little lies to cover for other little lies.

But if you want to visit Iran, it's just what you have to do.

You may feel like you're betraying who you are. And that’s sort of true. But in this case, you're going to visit a country, which is so rich with history and beauty that not many people get to see. For that reason alone, it’s totally worth it!

Gay Iran: Persepolis ruins
The incredible ruins at Persepolis

More about the writer:

Michael Demmons is from Canada who is married to Halef from Indonesia. Together they are “theRTWguys”, living in Atlanta, USA. Michael and Halef have travelled to over 50 countries and plan to quit their jobs in 2019 to travel the world full time. Check out their awesome blog, where they write about their travels, scuba diving adventures and comfy airport lounges.

You can also follow them on Facebook, Instagram, Twitter and YouTube.

Michael and Halef RTW guys
The RTW Guys: Michael and Halef

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Gay Iran 6 tips for gay travellers to Iran

Happy travels are safe travels

We recommend you always take out travel insurance before your next vacation. What happens if you suffer from illness, injury, theft or a cancellation? With travel insurance, you can have peace of mind and not worry. We love World Nomads travel insurance and have been using it for years. Their comprehensive coverage is second to none and their online claims process is very user friendly.

Some of the links in this post are affiliate links. This means that if you book your accommodation, an activity or your insurance, we’ll earn a small commission. There is never an extra cost to you for using these links and it helps us keep the site going.

For more practical tips, read our article about the best ways to stay safe when travelling. Also it's not all bad in the Middle East – check out the gay scene of Beirut in Lebanon for example.

Stefan Arestis

Stefan is the co-founder, editor and author the gay travel blog As a travel nerd, he has explored more than 80 countries across 5 continents. What he loves the most about travelling is discovering the local gay scene, making new friends and learning new cultures. His advice about LGBTQ travel has been featured in Gay Times, Gaycities, Pink News, Gay Star News, Attitude and Towleroad. He has also written about gay travel for other non-gay specific publications including Lonely Planet, The New York Times, The Guardian and The Huffington Post. Stefan is also a qualified lawyer, having practised as a commercial property litigator in London for over 10 years. He left his lawyer days behind to work full time on Nomadic Boys with his husband Sebastien. Find out more about Nomadic Boys.

23 thoughts on “Gay Iran: 6 tips for gay travellers visiting Iran”

  1. I have been in Iran for 3 months before and I can say that Iran surprised me by all means. Because of the media I was assuming that there were so many ignorant and conservative people all around Iran but no! Iranian people were really friendly and caring. I’ve also met so many gay friends too. Reading about Iran from a gay perspective was amazing. Thanks Michael for this detalied post and that you for sharing.

  2. I’d love to visit Iran. Everything I’ve heard from people who have actually been there indicates people are warm and welcoming. And of course there is the incredible history and culture. But after reading your article, I realized that at least for me, having to take even one step back into the closet makes Iran literally a “no go” for me. I’ve done that in the past when visiting other countries, and I’m done with that. No more.

  3. hi I am Iranian too. its not really that bad you say. I kiss guys in public. but not on the street where everybody can see me. nowadays many people are okay with that. actually there is some statements in laws of Iran that could get gay people killed. but its not like “you are gay, you should be killed”. if two people in Iran want to have sex and they both are satisfied, law can’t kill them. I had a teacher who was a lawyer. he told me that. it is really hard to get killed by law. like, 4 men must have seen you “doing gay sex” to prove it. and that law is like for whores who make people to have sex. not two men who are just together. after all it is not that bad. I date guys in Iran and I have sex too. but I don’t talk about it in public. thats all. sorry for the wrong English. I don’t know much.

  4. im iranian and i have to say you are right , but pepole of iran are very kind , most of pepole dont notice you are gay or not ,but iranian regime hate gay pepole and arrest them ,i can help turiist whi want visit iran

  5. I am Iranian and if I wanted to advise my gay friends I would not change a word of what you said- awesome job in screening your travel destination culture. There are a lot of underground parties and gay groups in Iran but I would encourage to stay away from it. I hope you enjoyed the food, hospitality and my hometown Esfahan. Miss my gay friends (Ahmad and Goli) still living high life in there. Love love love the last pic of Michael and Halef wearning their rings in Iran! Love never fails.

  6. Iran is one of the most misunderstood countries in the world. I found there a lot of information about Iran out there, however most of it is either false or out of date. As a visitor to Iran, there are several things that must to know before an arrival. Crossing the Road is Probably the Most Dangerous in Iran. Crossing the road in Iran is terrifying. Be Prepared for Some Crazy Drivers.

  7. Michael that boycott point is dead on dude! I love your take because it focuses on love, harmony and open-ness. Force negates. Power wins. Or love wins. Respect local culture. This is exactly how change happens. When we try to will our views, that is how change is resisted, and this also leads to all types of problems. Thanks for the rocking share guys 🙂


    • Thank you, Ryan. I’ve always had a policy of not boycotting countries (unless I thought there was imminent danger). I am pretty socially active and aware, so if I boycotted every country that I thought was wrong about something – even terribly wrong – then it would severely limit my movement. Gay rights, women’s rights, extreme wealth inequality, oppression, discrimination against native populations, lack of freedom for the media, etc.

      Pretty soon, you run out of places to visit. There are so many beautiful things and people to see in the world. In Iran, I really had to see Persepolis – the seat of ancient Persia that was invaded by Alexander the Great. If I was to wait until Tehran was having gay pride parades, I’d never see it in my lifetime.

      The goal should be to do what you can to change it – not necessarily boycott it. I think Stefan and Sebastien summed it up pretty well – at least about gay rights – in the post we linked in this article.

      Be socially aware. Work to change it. Speak up. Donate money and time. And, just as importantly, get out, meet, and spend your tourist dollars with the people affected by the things you’re outraged about.

  8. Thanks for those tips ! Always a good thing to discover out of the road destination and people. More over we could think that Iran is honnest, rules are the same for everyone not like some other countries which apply restrictive law to its own citizens but apply welcoming treatments and does not apply laws for pink dollars tourists. It is a chance, for your as a tourist and for the people you will met in the way, to increase your awarness of the gay life of other person and wider their horizon !

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