Gay Luang Prabang: discover the gay scene with local boy Somphorn (RIP)

UPDATE: it is with great sadness we report that in June 2019, our dear friend Somphorn passed away after battling liver cancer.

Somphorn was a stalwart in the LGBTQ community of Laos and his memory will forever live on. We have many fond memories with Somphorn during our travels in Laos and we will always keep his memory alive.

We are very sad to have lost a dear friend, but the heavens have gained an angel!

Somphorn was the owner of the popular gay friendly Lao Lao Gardens in Luang Prabang, which is where we met him. We spent the day together at the beautiful Kuang Si Falls where he also gave us his insight as to what it’s like growing up in gay Laos.

Hi Somphorn! Please introduce yourself:

My name is Somphorn Boupha, 32 years old. I was born and raised in the city of Luang Prabang in Laos.

I own and manage Lao Lao Garden in Luang Prabang, which is a gay friendly bar and restaurant. I also help my friends out with tours in and around Luang Prabang – I love meeting people from all around the world and showing off my city.

Gay tour of Cambodia and Laos

Every November, our friends at Out Adventures organise a fabulous gay tour through Laos and Cambodia. Channel your inner Lara Croft as you sashay your way through the ancient temples of Angkor Wat, explore the vibrant nightlife of Phnom Penh with a group of fabulous like-minded men, immerse yourself in the serenity of Luang Prabang and try a few exotic culinary discoveries…barbecued spider anyone?

Find out more

Are you out to your friends and family?

Yes, all my family and friends know I’m gay. I came out to my family when I was around 20 years old. My mother said she always suspected I was different and was very accepting, as were all my siblings.

I lost my father from a young age so I never really knew him. I was very fortunate to be accepted by everyone around me. I do have friends who had a more negative experience when coming out to their families. One friend in particular was told to leave the house and never come back, but he has now managed to resolve his issues with his family after almost a decade!

What’s it like growing up gay in Laos?

I was really lucky to have a very accepting family and group of friends, which made it very easy for me. However, there were no gay places so it was hard to meet other guys. Now the social media apps have made this a lot easier.

It can be problematic though for some to gain employment in government or other high status sectors if they are openly gay as there are no anti discrimination laws. Discretion is therefore important. Everyone around me knows I’m gay, but as long as I don’t shout out loud about it, then everything is fine.

Are there any gay places in Luang Prabang you recommend?

There are quite a few gay owned bars in Luang Prabang but Lao Lao Garden is the most well known because of various reference to it in online gay resources like Utopia. We have gay staff and attract a mixed crowd of both local and western gays each evening.

In Laos it is illegal to market my bar as gay or put a rainbow flag outside. If I did, then this would attract negative attention from the police and Lao Lao Garden would be closed down.

Where can gay travelers meet local gay Laotians?

Grindr and Hornet are a good starting point. In Luang Prabang, we obviously attract a large LGBTQ crowd here at Lao Lao Garden.

In Vientiane there is a bar called Lao Cafe (CCC Bar), which is also unofficially a ‘gay bar’, but like my bar, not allowed to market it as such.

How do you deal with the midnight curfew?

The curfew in Laos technically requires everyone to be home by midnight. But this is not actually enforced. The police are not going to stop you if you are outdoors after midnight! But for businesses, we are required to close by midnight. In Luang Prabang this is more strictly enforced in order to protect and preserve its UNESCO status.

Some business outside the centre of Luang Prabang pay bribes to the police to allow them to stay open beyond the midnight curfew.

So where’s good to hangout in Luang Prabang after curfew?

There is a popular bowling alley a short tuk tuk ride away from the centre, which has managed to benefit from a loophole in the law and stays open till around 2am.

I also know a few other local bars, which do the same, but it changes all the time.

Are there any gay events in Laos?

Actually, we had our first Pride on 25th June 2012 and again on 17 May 2013 called Proud To Be Us. It is hosted by the US Embassy and held on their sports field in Vientiane.

There haven't been any more announced yet, but you can join the Gay In Laos closed Facebook group for more information.

Which are some highlights you recommend gay travelers to Laos to check out?

Luang Prabang is my favorite place in Laos. It is a beautiful UNESCO listed city that despite being very touristy, has retained a magical charm. It was the Royal Capital of Laos until 1975 and has retained its ‘old world' charm. It's full of bustling markets and really pretty Buddhist temples like the gilded Wat Xieng Thong, dating to the 1500s. Near to Luang Prabang is the Kuang Si Waterfall which I think is the best thing in the country. They are so gorgeous, involving a trek through the jungle. I guarantee you'll get some of your best Instagram shots right here!

Vang Vieng is also a fun place to head with friends for parties, drinking, and tubing adventures. Other highlights in Laos I recommend include cruising along the Mekong River and visiting the impressive Plain of Jars archaeological site.

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For more inspiration:

• Make sure you try these delicious street foods in Luang Prabang
• You might be surprised by some of these interesting facts about Laos
• Check out all the most gay friendly countries in Asia
• Read about our experiences traveling through Asia as a gay couple
• After Laos, make sure you head to wonderful Thailand, the land of smiles!
• And don't miss our guide to the incredibly gay friendly city of Bangkok
• As well as our gay guide to the island of Phuket