Gay travel guide to Azerbaijan for first-timers

Welcome to the Land of Fire: Azerbaijan!

As a Eurovision Song Contest fanatic, Azerbaijan has always been on my radar. This is the country that gave us the mesmerizing MATA HARI, the unforgettable Drip Drop by Safura, and the yummy hunk of a man that is Farid Mammadov… Add to that the inspiration from Season 1 of the BBC's Race Across the World, and my wanderlust was off the charts!

So in July 2024, I finally made it happen. Azerbaijan became the 97th country I've explored. At first, I had my reservations. Azerbaijan is a majority Muslim country, which, let's face it, often means challenges for LGBTQ travelers. Whilst it got rid of its anti-gay law in 2000, there is a stark absence of progressive LGBTQ laws.

In reality, most of my fears were unfounded. Azerbaijan is very safe. Crime rates are low and it is officially a secular nation. Despite having a Muslim majority, most Azeris are quite relaxed about religious customs. For example, most drink alcohol, most eat pork and it's rare to see women wearing the hijab. Whilst there is no official gay scene anywhere in Azerbaijan there remains a vibrant, albeit underground, LGBTQ community that’s very much alive and proud.

This is my take on this captivating country, nestled in the South Caucasus at the crossroads of Eastern Europe and Western Asia. A land where ancient silk roads weave through futuristic skyscrapers and vibrant bazaars stand in the shadows of grand Soviet-era relics. This is my take on traveling in Azerbaijan as an LGBTQ explorer, navigating the intricacies and finding the hidden gems of this fascinating nation.

Is Azerbaijan safe for gay travelers?

While a stunning and culturally rich destination, Azerbaijan presents a mixed bag when it comes to LGBTQ rights and safety.

Overall, Azerbaijan is very safe. Crime is low. Thefts are minimal. I never felt unsafe anywhere in the country. All the locals I met also told me the same.

In relation to LGBTQ rights in Azerbaijan, homosexuality was decriminalized in 2000. This might sound progressive on paper. however, the reality is more nuanced. There are no specific anti-discrimination laws protecting LGBTQ individuals, and same-sex marriages or civil unions are not recognized. Adoption rights for same-sex couples are non-existent, and the social attitude towards LGBTQ individuals is super conservative. Public displays of affection between same-sex partners are likely to attract unwanted attention, so I advise erring on the side of caution and avoiding them.

Despite these challenges, my experience in Azerbaijan was largely positive. The country is safe, with low crime rates and a visible law enforcement presence, particularly in tourist areas. While there isn’t an openly thriving gay scene, there is a vibrant underground community. The locals I encountered were hospitable and curious, more interested in sharing their culture than prying into personal lives.

In Baku, the capital city, the atmosphere is more cosmopolitan and tolerant compared to rural areas. Here, you can enjoy the vibrant nightlife, visit historical sites, and blend in with the diverse crowd. However, it’s essential to remain cautious and respectful of the local customs and societal norms. Azerbaijan may not have the progressive LGBTQ laws of Western countries, but with the right mindset and precautions, it can be a rewarding destination for gay travelers.

Are there any gay friendly places to stay in Azerbaijan?

When traveling to countries in Eastern Europe with limited LGBTQ+ laws, such as Armenia, Georgia, Albania, Romania, and of course, Azerbaijan, we always prioritize finding accommodations that are comfortable and welcoming to LGBTQ travelers. Our starting point is always the big hotel brands, which you know adhere to international anti-discrimination standards amongst their staff and won't care less if two guys want to share a double bed. These include the Hyatt Regency Baku, The Fairmont Baku, Flame Towers, the Boutique Hotel Baku, and the Hilton Baku.

If these are outside your budget or you prefer a more private space where you know bringing an overnight guest home back isn't going to raise any eyebrows, we recommend checking out the listings on Misterbnb, which has tons of listings in Baku:

Are public displays of affection safe in Azerbaijan?

Before heading to Azerbaijan, we were well aware that same-sex relationships are not widely accepted by society, prompting us to err on the side of caution and avoid public displays of affection (PDAs) unless we were in a space known to be queer-friendly.

In Baku, the cosmopolitan heart of Azerbaijan, it's likely that walking hand-in-hand with your partner might not attract much attention, especially in central areas where the atmosphere is more relaxed and diverse. However, we decided not to take any chances and agreed to present ourselves as friends while in public.

The cultural context in Azerbaijan is conservative, and traditional values, especially among older generations, still hold significant sway. While we might have received curious glances rather than outright hostility, the potential for negative reactions was enough for us to keep our affections private. This approach not only ensured our safety but also allowed us to navigate the local culture with respect.

Are there any gay friendly spaces or parties in Azerbaijan?

In Azerbaijan, there’s no dedicated gay scene, and the nightlife scene doesn’t cater specifically to LGBTQ+ individuals. Unlike neighboring Georgia, with its vibrant gay scene in Tbilisi, Azerbaijan's capital, Baku, offers a more subtle approach. Although there are no official gay bars or clubs, a few spaces are known for their welcoming atmosphere to the LGBTQ+ community.

The Kefli Wine Bar is a popular choice, known for being gay-owned and openly gay-friendly. Room Baku provides a chic environment that attracts a diverse crowd, including locals from the LGBTQ+ community.

For those who want to boogie, the Loft Speakeasy Bar has a lively weekend scene, while Jolly Joker Club offers a fun atmosphere for everyone. If you're in the mood for European-style techno and international DJs, FOMO Club doubles as an event hall and is worth checking out.

While these venues aren’t exclusively gay, they offer a welcoming space where you’re likely to encounter a mix of locals and expats, including those from the LGBTQ+ community.

What’s Grindr like in Azerbaijan?

Grindr is a useful tool for connecting with local gay individuals, and it can offer a glimpse into the LGBTQ+ scene in Azerbaijan. However, the experience of Grindr in Azerbaijan can be somewhat challenging. Many profiles may appear blank or feature headless torsos, indicating a significant level of discretion or fear among users about revealing their identities. This reluctance reflects the conservative attitudes towards homosexuality in Azerbaijan.

You may encounter profiles with very few details or even fake identities, as many users are cautious about disclosing personal information due to societal pressures. While this can be frustrating, it’s essential to approach these interactions with understanding, as privacy and safety concerns drive this behavior.

For a broader range of connections, consider also using Hornet, which is popular in Russia and other ex-Soviet countries. Setting up profiles on both Grindr and Hornet could enhance your chances of meeting locals. As always, exercise caution by verifying identities through social media or a quick video call and please do read our safety tips when using gay dating apps.

What’s the best way to connect with gay travelers in Azerbaijan?

To connect with gay travelers in Azerbaijan, Grindr, and Hornet are reliable tools for making initial connections. Misterbnb is also a handy place to connect with queer locals who rent out their rooms.

If you want a more organic way to meet fellow LGBTQ+ travelers, consider joining Baku Free Walking Tours. I love doing these in every new destination I visit: they are always run by an enthusiastic local and it's a great way to get an initial flavor of a new place. In my experience, these tours attract a diverse crowd, including many LGBTQ+ travelers, making them an excellent opportunity to connect with like-minded individuals.

On the subject of ‘free', they rely on you tipping the guide what you think the experience is worth. I'll be honest, whether or not the tour is fantastic or meh I always tip generously and encourage you to do the same (at least €20 per person). The reason is it's run by a local doing business on their own and the money you give goes directly to them – not to some corporate based in the US or Europe.

What are the highlights of Azerbaijan?

Azerbaijan captivated me with its incredible mix of history, culture, and stunning landscapes. From wandering the vibrant streets of Baku, where ancient architecture meets futuristic skyscrapers, to exploring the tranquil Caucasus Mountains, this country has so much to offer.

Whether I was delving into ancient ruins, savoring mouth-watering Azerbaijani cuisine, or lounging by the Caspian Sea, I found endless reasons to fall in love with Azerbaijan.

Baku

My highlights of Baku included getting lost in the charming UNESCO-listed narrow cobblestone streets of the Old City and experiencing the lively atmosphere of Baku Boulevard in the evening – a bustling promenade that stretches along the Caspian Sea. The city’s unique modern architecture is a dream for budding photographers. The iconic Flame Towers stand tall as the most recognized symbol of Baku, but there’s so much more to admire. The Carpet Museum, with its striking design, the towering TV Tower, the elegant Crescent Hotel, and the futuristic Heydar Aliyev Centre (designed by Zaha Hadid), complete with the I Love Baku sign in its surrounding park, are all architectural marvels that make this city truly special.

Live mud volcano at Gobustan

Where else in the world can you witness a live mud volcano in action? It's fair to say I've been around the block a few times(!) yet I've never seen anything like this before. The Mud Volcano Museum in Gobustan, located about 1.5 hours from Baku, offers both indoor and outdoor exhibits. The outdoor section features a path that allows you to walk right up to the live mud volcanoes, where you can watch them bubble and churn right before your eyes—a truly unique and unforgettable experience!

My hot tip: You can visit the mud volcano, ancient rock landscape, fire temple, and fire mountain all in a single day trip. Numerous tour operators you'll likely encounter in Baku's Old City offer these excursions, or you can book online through platforms like Viator or GetYourGuide. In my case, I arranged a private tour with my Misterbnb host, who provided an exceptional experience. Feel free to reach out to me, and I’d be happy to put you in touch with him.

Gobustan Ancient Rock Art

Gobustan's Ancient Rock Art, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is an absolute must-see. This site boasts a captivating indoor museum that provides context and history, and an outdoor area where you can marvel at thousands of petroglyphs dating back over 40,000 years. Walking among these ancient carvings, which depict scenes of hunting, dancing, and daily life, is like stepping back in time and offers a profound glimpse into the lives of our distant ancestors. Additionally, the views from here are simply breathtaking, adding an extra layer of awe to this already fascinating experience.

Fire Temple and Fire Mountain

The Fire Temple Atashgah and the Fire Mountain Yanardaq are two of Azerbaijan’s most intriguing sites, showcasing the country’s ancient connection to fire. The Atashgah Fire Temple, a Zoroastrian place of worship, offers a fascinating glimpse into the spiritual practices of ancient Persia with its perpetually burning flame, fueled by natural gas seepage. Just a short drive away (around 30 minutes from Baku), Yanardaq, or “Burning Hill,” is a natural wonder where flames have been blazing from the hillside for centuries, creating an otherworldly landscape that has to be seen to be believed. Together, these sites provide a unique window into the region’s rich cultural and natural heritage.

Sheki

Sheki, a charming town in northwestern Azerbaijan, quickly became one of my favorite spots in the country. The bus ride from Baku to Sheki takes about 5-6 hours, including a 30-minute stop midway but costs only $8. You’ll need to catch the bus from the Baki Beynelxalq Avtovagzal Kompleski (Baku Bus Terminal)—don’t worry if Google Maps shows it as permanently closed, it’s not! If you prefer comfort and are willing to splurge, private transfers are available taking around 4.5 hours, but be prepared to spend around $100 each way. In Sheki, I was captivated by the magnificent Palace of Sheki Khans (Xan Sarayı) within the Haci Çələbi’s Nukha Fortress and the historic Karavansaray. A short bus ride from the Sheki bazaar took me to the quaint village of Kish, where I explored the beautiful Albanian Church. As a UNESCO World Heritage site, Sheki is packed with history and beauty, making the journey there absolutely worth it.

Sea Breeze Beach at Nardaran

For a relaxing beach day, I highly recommend heading to Sea Breeze in Nardaran. It’s about a 30-minute taxi ride from Baku, costing around $15 each way. Despite the Caspian Sea's oil-rich reputation, the waters here are stunningly clear, beautiful, and remarkably warm compared to other waters I've swam in further south. Whether you're looking to swim in the Caspian Sea or just enjoy a leisurely day by the water, Sea Breeze in Nardaran offers a refreshing escape from the city's hustle and bustle. Note there is the Sea Breeze Resort Beach Club which has an entry fee of around $30 and the free public beach a short drive away, also called Sea Breeze.

Azeri food

Azerbaijan's cuisine is an absolute delight. I had some unforgettable culinary experiences here. In Baku, the pilaf (also called plov) at Qaynana was a standout, and The Sweet Levantine served a delicious kunefe. Lunch often featured qutab tortillas and feseli, a cheesy flatbread. Sheki, the acclaimed Azeri gastronomic capital, blew me away with its Sheki piti (lamb stew), delicious halva, and unique dishes like levengisi (walnut and chestnut stuffing) and qurut (dried yoghurt balls). The fresh choban salati, rich dovga (yoghurt soup), savory kutab pies, and baliq levengi (fish stuffed with walnuts and pomegranates) were all incredible. Azeri breakfast highlights include pomidor yumurta (scrambled eggs with tomatoes), and clotted cream with honey (gaimag/qaymaq), all washed down with freshly baked tendir bread.

And finally, a word about the coffee situation!

I love my morning coffee and get grumpy without it. My caffeine addiction continues proudly throughout the day. I'm also a proud coffee snob and turn my nose up at the idea of drinking Instant Coffee (like Nescafe)…

Imagine my trepidation on arrival in Baku when I found out that the Azeris are a proud tea-drinking culture who don't care for coffee at all… Forget my morning brew – at best it was Nescafe sachets! Can you imagine?!

I exaggerate of course. There are excellent cafes in Baku, which are growing in number as the coffee-drinking culture grows, particularly among the younger generation. The point of this paragraph is to highlight how important tea is to Azeris – far more so compared to coffee. This surprised me because Azerbaijan has a strong connection with Turkey, with cultural influences from the Ottoman Empire. Despite this drinking even Turkish Coffee in traditional Azeri culture is just not a thing!

Practical info for traveling to Azerbaijan

• Visa must be applied for online. It's easy but takes several days or less if you pay for the express service. Make sure you print off a copy to show on arrival.
• Currency: manat. The country is very modern. ATMs work. You don't need to plan anything. The currency is the Manat ($1 converts to around AZN1.7). There are 100 qepiqs in 1 Manat.
• The international telephone code for Azerbaijan is +994.
• Plugs: similar to European two-pin plugs. Remember to bring an adaptor plug if traveling from somewhere like the UK, USA, and Australia.
• Taxi: Uber doesn't work here but they have Bolt. Warning, in busy areas like the airport, taxi drivers buddy up and overrun Bolt accepting every request and then DM you to push the price up and to pay in cash. Just accept that at the airport you will pay a hefty price to get into town (compared to locals) costing around 30 Manat ($18). There is an Uber equivalent in Azerbaijan called Uber AZ, but to download it you will first need to change your location setting in your App Store, so I advise you just stick with Bolt.
• Azerbaijan is officially a secular country but 98% of the population are Muslim, albeit ‘soft' Muslim – most drink alcohol, eat pork, and few women wear headscarves).
• Muğam is the traditional Azeri music to look out for. It is like a pained wailing, intensely emotional, and interestingly it is on the UNESCO list of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.

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For more inspiration:

• Read what we rate to be the most dangerous places for gay travelers
• Learn about gay life is like in Georgia in our interview with Giorgi from Tbilisi
• Discover what gay life is like in Romania in our interview with Alexandru from Bucharest
• Read what we rate to be the most gay friendly countries in the world
• If you're heading to Romania be sure to hit up our Bucharest gay travel guide
• We also have a gay guide to Russia if your travels happen to take you there