Is Saudi Arabia the new gay mecca of the Arab World?

If you told 20-something me that one day I’d be sipping Arabic coffee in Riyadh’s desert outskirts—solo, no less(!), I would’ve laughed, checked your temperature, and asked if Grindr had launched a teleportation feature.

But here I am, back from a week in Saudi Arabia with more dates (the fruit kind, obviously) than I’ve ever had on a Friday night in Berlin.

Let’s address the fabulous, rainbow-striped elephant in the room: Saudi Arabia is not the first destination that springs to mind when you think of “gay travel”! It’s a country where LGBTQ+ rights are, to put it politely, a work in progress. But like many things in life (kale smoothies, Pilates, my first time watching Game of Thrones), it turned out to be far more nuanced than I expected.

This was a trip of unexpected warmth: from locals who were genuinely curious, kind, and (often surprisingly) open-minded in private settings. Traveling here as a gay man requires caution, discretion, and a healthy respect for local laws. But it’s not impossible, and it’s certainly not devoid of moments of connection, culture, and yes, a little sparkle beneath the sand.

Saudi Arabia…WTAF?!

Honestly, if you'd told us a few years ago we’d be writing a gay travel guide about the Kingdom, we’d have assumed you’d been baking in the desert sun a bit too long. But here we are.

Since the religious police were sidelined in 2016/17 and the country flung open its doors to tourists under the Saudi Vision 2030, things have shifted—a lot. No, it’s not a queer utopia (yet), but attitudes are slowly evolving, and an underground LGBTQ+ community is quietly, confidently growing. It’s a country in flux: part tradition, part transformation. And it’s exactly that tension that makes it so fascinating to explore…even for gay travelers.

Is Saudi Arabia safe for gay travelers?

Let’s be clear: Saudi Arabia still criminalizes same-sex relationships, and public LGBTQ+ expression remains illegal. However, since the religious police's powers have been disbanded over the last decade, and the country opened up to tourism under Vision 2030, the atmosphere has shifted, especially for visitors.

Today, Saudi Arabia is one of the safest countries I’ve traveled to in terms of general crime. As a tourist, I felt secure walking around. I was surprised by how hospitable and welcoming the Saudis are. It's an actual thing for them, deep-rooted in their mentality, to make all guests feel welcome. Every Saudi (gay and straight) I spoke to told me this with great pride.

While discretion is still essential, there are signs of a growing underground queer scene. Events like MDLBEAST’s Soundstorm festival draw diverse crowds, and venues like Sociale Café in Riyadh and Black Potion Café in Jeddah have become popular gathering spots for the LGBTQ+ community.

In a groundbreaking move, the official Saudi tourism website updated its FAQ in May 2023 to state that LGBT visitors are welcome and not required to disclose personal details. That’s a huge step for an Islamic country located in a very conservative part of the world.

So, is it safe? With cultural awareness and discretion, yes. Saudi Arabia is evolving, and for LGBTQ+ travelers, it's a destination that is cautiously opening its doors.

Gay bars, events, and parties in Saudi Arabia

You won’t find rainbow flags waving openly in Riyadh (yet), but believe me, there’s a discreet, growing LGBTQ+ scene if you know where to look. One of the biggest unexpected highlights? MDLBEAST, who organize events throughout the year in Riyadh and Jeddah that gays from all over the country flock to. These include Balad Beast in Jeddah every January, Soundstorm in Riyadh every December, and A Thousand and One in Riyadh every April.

Then there’s Sociale Café in Riyadh—low-key, but super popular with the city’s more progressive crowd. It’s one of those spots where you clock the subtle glances, the energy, the unspoken vibe. Nothing overt, but queer-friendly. Another is Black Potion Cafe in Jeddah – remember, these are cafes, not bars, because the sale of alcohol is still illegal in Saudi Arabia.

Everything is still very much underground, but the fact that this kind of social scene exists at all in Saudi Arabia is wild – and wonderful! It’s all part of the country’s slow but real shift. The key? Stay discreet, respectful, and open to the (surprisingly fabulous!) possibilities.

Where to stay in Saudi Arabia for gay travelers?

While there aren’t any openly gay hotels in Saudi Arabia (no surprises there!), international hotel chains offer safe, comfortable, and discreet stays. Places like the Four Seasons, Hilton, Radisson Blu, and Marriott are well-known for their professionalism, ideal for solo travelers or two guys checking in together without raising eyebrows.

In Riyadh, business hotels tend to be the most polished and private, while in Jeddah, you’ll find more laid-back resorts along the Red Sea and a few chic boutique options like The House Hotel. For something truly special, Al Ula is home to luxe desert lodges that are private, peaceful, and seriously photogenic.

Is it safe to use Grindr in Saudi Arabia?

Grindr is blocked in Saudi Arabia, so you’ll need a solid VPN to access it. Because of this, most locals prefer Scruff, which surprisingly isn’t blocked and has a much bigger Saudi user base as a result. It’s discreet, functional, and better suited for connecting with real people nearby.

That said, safety is everything. Most profiles are faceless or feature torso shots only, understandably, as people are extremely cautious about privacy. To avoid catfish, fake profiles, or worse, keep these golden rules in mind:

• Always trust your gut—if it feels dodgy, it probably is!
• Ask for a clear face pic.
• A quick video chat can help confirm someone’s legit.
• Meet in public first if you’re unsure.
• And if he’s on social media, ask to connect there first.

Stay safe, stay smart, and swipe with care. Please also read our article about safety tips when using gay dating apps.

Best places to visit and top experiences in Saudi Arabia

From ancient wonders to jaw-dropping landscapes, Saudi Arabia is full of surprises. These are a few highlights that blew me away on my trip. Note that my trip was only to Jeddah, Al Ula, and Riyadh, so I've only focused on my personal experience.

Also note that you can visit most of these last minute – no need to plan, except for Al Ula! I strongly advise you to book your internal flights to/from Al Ula as they get booked out quickly. In addition, all tours/experiences for Al Ula (except Elephant Rock and Old Town, which are free) also get snapped up quickly, so make sure you get those penciled in and booked pronto.

• Al Ula (including Hegra): Saudi Arabia’s answer to Petra! Hegra is a stunning UNESCO site featuring well-preserved monumental tombs with decorated facades dating from the 1st century BC. I also loved the cute Old Town of Al Ula, but come here after sunset when it's all lit up. During the day, most businesses are closed because of the heat. Elephant Rock is also worth checking out at sunset. All these are free except Hegra, which you have to book a tour via the Experience Al Ula.

• Diriyah (near Riyadh): The birthplace of the Saudi kingdom, now transformed into a buzzing heritage site with restored mudbrick palaces, cool cafes, and cultural events. Heads up, if taking a taxi, make sure it takes you to Bujairi Terrace and not Diriyah downtown, which is miles away! Also, get your ticket online beforehand to save time – it's free.
• Edge of the World (near Riyadh): A surreal cliffside view that genuinely feels like you’re standing at the edge of the Earth. The sunset here is unreal. I chose this GetYourGuide Edge of the World tour because the reviews referred to the guide's photography and drone. Hands down one of the best tours I've done! This is one of the many photos I got from it. Watch the entire drone footage on our Edge of the World Insta Reel.

• Red Sea (near Jeddah): Crystal-clear waters, vibrant coral reefs, and world-class diving without the tourist crowds…yes, please! You can even snorkel over shipwrecks or take a boat trip to remote islands that feel completely untouched. For a more relaxed vibe, Silver Sands Beach is a private spot popular among locals and expats, offering a discreet and welcoming atmosphere.
• teamLab Borderless in Jeddah: I didn’t think I’d find cutting-edge digital art in Saudi Arabia, but teamLab Borderless in Jeddah proved me wrong. It’s an immersive, interactive space where light, sound, and motion blur together—and yes, it’s as mind-bendingly beautiful as it sounds.

Looking for a gay-friendly tour guide in Saudi Arabia?

We’ve got you covered…quietly, of course. We’ve connected with a fantastic local guide who offers private, culturally immersive tours across Saudi Arabia. For their privacy and safety, we’re keeping things low-key here on the blog.

If you’d like an intro, just slide into our inbox or drop a discreet comment below. We’ll sort you out faster than you can say “Marhaban, habibi!”

Can you take PrEP or HIV medication into Saudi Arabia?

Short answer from my experience is yes, absolutely, you should be fine: I traveled to Saudi Arabia with a full bottle of PrEP in my checked luggage and was never asked anything, no checks ever made. I flew into Jeddah airport, took two internal flights (one to Al Ula, the second Al Ula to Riyadh), then my flight out from Riyadh.

However, the official line from the Saudi Embassy in Washington, DC is:

“Yes, you can bring PrEP or HIV medication into Saudi Arabia for personal use, but there are strict guidelines to follow. You'll need a recent (within six months) doctor's prescription or medical report detailing your diagnosis, treatment plan, and the generic names and dosages of your medications. Ensure the medication is in its original packaging and carry a copy of your ID. Typically, you're allowed to bring a supply sufficient for the duration of your stay or up to one month, whichever is shorter. If you require more medication while in the country, you'll need to consult a local physician and obtain approval from the Saudi Food and Drug Authority. It's crucial to carry all documentation in your hand luggage and be prepared to present it to customs officials upon arrival. Always verify the latest regulations before traveling, as policies can change.​”

What are the best foods to try in Saudi Arabia?

Saudi cuisine is hearty, flavorful, and packed with centuries of tradition. Think slow-cooked meats, fragrant spices, and plenty of rice. Here are some must-try dishes and drinks that’ll give your taste buds a proper Arabian adventure:

• Kabsa: Saudi Arabia’s national dish – spiced rice with lamb or chicken.
• Mutabbaq: crispy stuffed pancake often filled with spiced meat and veggies.
• Jareesh: cracked wheat slow-cooked with meat or chicken.
• Dates and Qahwa (Arabic coffee): sweet, sticky dates paired with lightly spiced green coffee.
• Margoog: rich stew made with meat, vegetables, and thin dumpling-like dough slices.
• Laban: a cold, salty yoghurt drink that’s refreshing and hydrating.
• Camel meat: served grilled, stewed, or in kabsa (an Arabian mixed rice dish like in this next photo). I tried it at the Najdeh Village restaurant in Riyadh…tastes a bit like beef!

Is it moral for gay travelers to visit Saudi Arabia?

It’s a valid question, and one I asked myself before the trip. Saudi Arabia has a long way to go on LGBTQ+ rights, and yes, it’s important to acknowledge that. But travel isn’t always about endorsing a government, it’s about connecting with people, sharing cultures, and sometimes gently challenging assumptions just by showing up.

The reality? LGBTQ+ Saudis exist! They live, love, and build community in quiet ways, and many are eager to engage with the outside world, even if only discreetly. By visiting respectfully, we’re not turning a blind eye to injustice, we’re supporting local economies, creating moments of connection, and maybe even helping shift perceptions.

So is it moral? That’s personal. But for me, going with open eyes and an open heart felt more meaningful than staying away in silence.

Plan your trip to Saudi Arabia

Thinking of heading to Saudi Arabia? Here’s everything you need to know to make your trip smooth, safe, and unforgettable. Please also read our Gay Travel Page for invaluable safety advice, and our travel tips for first-time travelers for more generic practical info.

How to get to Saudi Arabia

Most international travelers fly into Riyadh (RUH), Jeddah (JED), or Dammam (DMM). I flew into Jeddah and left the country from Riyadh. I took internal flights to/from Al Ula, which I strongly advise you book asap as they are scarce and get snapped up pretty quickly.

Getting around

Uber does work in Saudi Arabia, but you're best off downloading and using Careem. It's slightly cheaper and more commonly used. Note that in Al Ula, Careem is not as popular and you'll have a higher waiting time for a taxi – instead, use the Kaiian taxi app. In Riyadh, the metro has just opened up, and it's beautiful! Make sure you check it out as part of your exploration of the capital.

Visa requirements

Most nationalities can apply for a tourist eVisa online. It only takes a few minutes and is valid for 90 days. Just check your eligibility on the Visit Saudi website.

Best time to visit

Avoid the summer unless you enjoy feeling like a roast chicken. The best time is between October and March, when it’s cooler and ideal for exploring. If you do visit during the hotter months, do what I did and save all your sightseeing for early morning or after sunset when it's cooler.

Packing essentials

Dress modestly: loose, breathable clothing is key. Shorts are fine in touristy areas, but opt for trousers and covered shoulders when visiting religious buildings like mosques. And always pack sunscreen!

Money matters

The local currency is the Saudi Riyal (SAR). Cards are widely accepted, even at smaller shops, but it’s handy to carry some cash for tipping and markets. ATMs are everywhere, and exchange rates are decent.

Language

Arabic is the official language, but English is widely spoken in cities and tourist areas. Still, a friendly “Shukran” (thank you) or “Salam Alaikum” (to greet someone, literally translates to “peace be with you”), goes a long way.

Read more travel adventures like this in our book!

We've published our very own gay travel book called, ‘Out in the World'. It has all our practical safety tips, first-hand advice, and travel stories from some of our favorite destinations.

We hope it inspires you to have a fun and safe trip!

Click on the book to order:

For more inspiration:

• Check out our Oman gay travel guide
• If heading to the UAE, read our Dubai gay guide and Abu Dhabi guide
• Our Bahrain gay travel guide also has your back
• Read if we think it's safe and ethical for gay travelers to visit Qatar
• Our Iran gay guide is another useful resource to check out