This is our gay travel guide to Hokkaido in North Japan, famous for its rugged landscapes, delicious seafood, and relaxing onsen. We also include the best gay-friendly places to stay, what to do, and where to play.
When you think of Japan, you probably picture bustling Tokyo, serene Kyoto temples, or a geisha strolling through the streets of Gion. But head to the country's northern edge to Hokkaido, the country's hidden gem. This island is a world of its own with some of the best onsen I've ever experienced.
Closer to Siberia than Tokyo, Hokkaido is the coldest part of Japan, a paradise for anyone who loves rugged wilderness, delicious seafood, and bathing in natural mineral-rich hot springs. Its history is shaped by the Ainu people, the indigenous group with a culture so rich and unique that it feels like stepping into a Japanese fairy tale, one where the people are descendants of a goddess and a white wolf! Between this folklore, the island's oh-so-dramatic mountains, and sprawling lavender fields in the summer, we quickly realized this was a destination unlike any other.
What makes Hokkaido so special for us is how it combines raw wilderness with a warm, welcoming vibe. Where else can you ski on pristine slopes in the winter, picnic in fragrant lavender fields in the summer, and still find time for a Pride parade? (Sapporo’s Rainbow Pride festival, by the way, is not to be missed!)
If you’re ready to venture off the beaten path and see a side of Japan that’s as fabulous as it is fierce, Hokkaido is waiting. Bring your sense of adventure, your appetite, and don’t forget your rainbow flag…we certainly didn’t!
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Experience Japan on a gay tour
Psst! Want in on a secret? Our friends at Out Adventures recently launched a super kawaii tour of Japan. On this all-gay foray, travelers will ride the Shinkansen bullet train between Osaka, Kyoto, and Tokyo. Highlights include a street food tour, a samurai experience, a night in an authentic onsen, and an evening in Tokyo's gay district, Shinjuku Ni-chōme.
Where is Hokkaido?
Hokkaido is Japan’s wild northern frontier, and trust me, it’s as far from the neon chaos of Tokyo as you can get—both literally and vibe-wise.
This is the northernmost of Japan’s four main islands, just a stone’s throw from Siberia. Yes, Siberia! On a clear day, you might even imagine you can see Russia across the sea… but don’t worry, you’re still in Japan’s safe and stunning embrace.
Historically, Hokkaido wasn’t always part of Japan. It was annexed in 1869, and its culture remains deeply influenced by the Ainu, the indigenous people of the region. Today, Hokkaido is famous for its jaw-dropping landscapes, from snow-covered peaks to fishing villages known for serving the freshest crab and sea urchin you’ll ever taste.
Where is the best place to stay in Hokkaido?
Choosing where to stay in Hokkaido is like deciding between Beyoncé, Cher, or Lady Gaga…you really can’t go wrong! Each offers its own unique flavor of fabulous.
If you’re after vibrant city life and gay-friendly vibes, we recommend basing yourself in Sapporo. It’s the heart of Hokkaido and home to the island’s LGBTQ+ scene, with gay bars like Bar Mad and Bridge giving you a warm welcome. Plus, it’s a foodie heaven with some of the best restaurants in the island and fresh seafood markets.
For something more romantic and scenic, we recommend Otaru. It’s a dreamy choice. This charming canal town has a European vibe with quaint streets, glass-blowing studios, and seafood so fresh it practically swims onto your plate.
If tranquility is calling your name, we recommend basing yourself in Lake Toya. Picture steaming onsen baths, volcanic backdrops, and serene lakeside strolls. It’s a slice of paradise for couples.
Gay friendly Hotels in Hokkaido
Finding gay friendly accommodation in Hokkaido isn’t hard. Japanese hospitality is all about making every guest feel welcome. And we certainly felt right at home in Hokkaido as a gay couple.
Whether you’re looking for a budget-friendly spot, a chic city stay, or a luxurious onsen retreat, Hokkaido has plenty of options to suit your needs. Here are some of the best gay friendly hotels in Hokkaido we tried and loved:
01
Mercure Sapporo
Medium Budget
In a nutshell
- In the heart of Susukino
- Walking distance to the gay bars of Sapporo
- Modern, stylish, and spacious rooms
- Epic breakfast buffet with local treats
When Seby and I rolled into Sapporo, we knew we wanted to stay somewhere central so we could explore the city’s gay nightlife without needing a GPS or, let’s be real, a map-reading meltdown (we’ve all been there!).
The Mercure Sapporo delivered on every front. It’s right in the heart of Susukino, the buzzing entertainment district, and all the gay bars are a short stroll away—perfect for a tipsy walk home.
The rooms are super modern and surprisingly spacious for Japan, and the staff? Absolute darlings! They made us feel like royalty from the moment we checked in. Oh, and the breakfast—sweet baby Buddha—the buffet is a feast of local Hokkaido delicacies that will leave you waddling back to your room. For a mid-range option with loads of flair, the Mercure is a fabulous pick!
Prices at Mercure Sapporo start from $66 per night:
02
Sapporo International Youth Hostel
Budget
In a nutshell
- Affordable and cozy
- On-site onsen
- Great place to meet fellow travelers
- Easy access to public transport
Confession: Seby and I don’t do hostels very often anymore (I blame our aging backs), but the Sapporo International Youth Hostel is something special. It’s budget-friendly without feeling like you’ve sacrificed all your comfort.
The best part? There’s an onsen on-site! Yes, you can relax in a steaming hot spring bath without ever leaving the building. Talk about luxury on a shoestring.
The vibe here is super chill and social, with friendly travelers from all over the world. The rooms are basic but clean, and you can choose from dorms or privates—no judgment if you want to avoid bunking with strangers after a long day of sightseeing. Plus, it’s just a quick hop on the subway to Sapporo’s gay bars, so you’re never far from the fun.
Prices at the Sapporo International Youth Hostel start from $50 per night:
03
Bourou Noguchi Noboribetsu
Luxury
In a nutshell
- Adults-only boutique hotel perfection
- Set amidst natural hot springs
- Elegant suites with private tubs
- Ultimate romantic escape for couples
When Seby and I want to spoil ourselves (and each other), we go big, and the Bourou Noguchi Noboribetsu ticks all the boxes for a dreamy, luxurious escape.
This adults-only boutique hotel is surrounded by the steamy Oyunuma natural hot springs, giving it that mystical, out-of-this-world vibe. Think elegant suites with private soaking tubs, floor-to-ceiling windows, and just the right touch of Japanese tradition.
We spent hours soaking in the onsen, where the mineral-rich waters worked wonders on our travel-weary bodies (and maybe our wrinkles too, who knows?). The whole place screams romance, making it perfect for couples like us who want to unwind and reconnect. If you’re celebrating a special occasion, or just feel like you deserve some luxury, this is the place to do it.
Prices at the Bourou Noguchi Noboribetsu start from $714 per night:
04
Toyako Manseikaku Hotel Lakeside Terrace
Luxury
In a nutshell
- Nightly Fireworks Cruise over Lake Toya
- Lakeside onsen with dreamy views
- Perfect for couples seeking romance
- Great base for outdoor adventures
If there’s one thing Seby loves more than an onsen, it’s a good show, so staying at Toyako Manseikaku Lakeside Terrace was a no-brainer. Why? Because they host a nightly Fireworks Cruise over Lake Toya!
Picture it: cuddled up with your boo on a boat, sipping sake while colorful fireworks explode over the water. It was so romantic I think Seby teared up… or maybe that was the sake.
The hotel itself is just as magical, with a gorgeous lakeside onsen that offers breathtaking views as you soak. The rooms are cozy but elegant, and the location is ideal for exploring the Lake Toya region’s hiking trails and hot springs. Whether you’re here for romance or adventure, this place delivers in spades.
Prices at the Toyako Manseikaku Hotel Lakeside Terrace start from $195 per night:
Things to do in Hokkaido
Hokkaido is one of those magical destinations where every day feels like an adventure. Seby and I fell head over heels for its mix of natural beauty, vibrant city life, and unique cultural gems.
Whether you’re hunting for the freshest sushi, relaxing in hot springs, or immersing yourself in local traditions, this northern Japanese paradise will keep you coming back for more.
Gay Nightlife in Sapporo
Sapporo may not have the biggest gay scene, but what it lacks in size, it makes up for in heart. The nightlife centers around the Susukino district, where you’ll find cozy, LGBTQ-friendly bars like Bar Mad and Bridge. Seby and I loved the warm, inclusive vibe here, perfect for connecting with locals over a drink or two. If you’re visiting during Sapporo Rainbow Pride in September, expect the nightlife to kick up a notch with even more glitter and fun.
Onsen (Hot Springs)
If there’s one thing we couldn’t get enough of in Hokkaido, it’s the onsens. Hot spring bathing is practically a religion here, and you’ll find them everywhere, from luxurious hotels to budget hostels. Seby and I loved the ritual of soaking in the steaming water, especially in outdoor baths surrounded by nature. It’s pure bliss and the perfect way to unwind after exploring. The health benefits of onsen are world-famous. My skin always feels like its glowing after soaking in an onsen.
Fresh Seafood and Unique Dishes
Hokkaido is a foodie’s dream, and we took full advantage. From buttery sea urchin to gigantic crab legs, the seafood here is next-level fresh. But the real surprise was soup curry, a Hokkaido specialty that’s spicy, hearty, and ridiculously comforting on a chilly day. We may have gone back for seconds.
Indigenous Ainu Culture
Learning about Hokkaido’s indigenous Ainu people was one of the most meaningful parts of our trip. At the National Ainu Museum, we were captivated by their traditional music and dance performances. It’s a powerful cultural experience that sheds light on the Ainu’s history and deep connection to the land.
Jigokudani Demon Fireworks at Noboribetsu
Hell Valley (Jigokudani) in Noboribetsu is like stepping into another planet, with its steamy craters, bubbling sulfur pools, and otherworldly vibes. And if you’re here during the Demon Fireworks, the valley transforms into a fiery spectacle that’s both thrilling and unforgettable. It’s wild, it’s dramatic, and we loved every second.
Toya-Usu UNESCO Global Geopark
For a taste of Hokkaido’s volcanic past, we visited the Toya-Usu Geopark and hiked around the active Mount Usu. This volcano has erupted nine times, most recently in 2000, and it’s a fascinating (and slightly humbling) experience to see nature’s power up close. The views of Lake Toya from here are impressive.
Shiroi Koibito Park
Picture this: Willy Wonka’s chocolate factory meets Japanese elegance. That’s exactly what you get at Shiroi Koibito Park, where we felt like kids again. We watched how the famous white chocolate cookies are made, sampled way too many sweet treats, and even got to decorate our own chocolate creations.
Otaru
Otaru is the kind of town that feels straight out of a storybook. With its quaint canals, charming architecture, and cozy vibe, it’s the perfect spot for couples like us to stroll hand in hand. We loved watching the sunset over the water, with lanterns lighting up the canals. A truly romantic end to the day.
Sapporo Chuo Wholesale Market
For seafood lovers, this market is heaven on earth! We had a field day sampling fresh uni (sea urchin), juicy crab legs, and sashimi that was fresher than anything we’d ever tasted. The highlight? The auctions that take place at the crack of dawn. It’s an early start but worth it to see how the large fish and different fruit are sold in a pretty dramatic way.
Dine at the iconic Sapporo TV Tower
Sapporo’s iconic TV Tower isn’t just a postcard-perfect landmark, it’s also home to a pretty decent restaurant – The Garden Grill. We enjoyed a memorable meal here with stunning views of the city. Seby and I were in foodie heaven, indulging in local Hokkaido specialties while soaking in the skyline. Fun fact: the tower once got destroyed in the 1994 Godzilla vs. SpaceGodzilla movie (don’t worry, it’s back and better than ever).
Plan your trip
We've put together some handy hints and tips to help you plan your trip to Hokkaido. Read on to find out everything the gay traveler should know before they go.
- When to visit: winter is great for skiing and snow festivals. Spring brings with her greenery and cherry blossom season. Summer is perfect for hiking. The Fall months are good for vivid foliage. The onsen are excellent all year round!
- Travel insurance: we've been using Heymondo Travel Insurance for ages and can't recommend them highly enough.
- How to get there: New Chitose Airport is the main airport, close to Sapporo. There are direct flights from Tokyo, Osaka, and other nearby Asian cities.
- Visa requirements: Japan offers a free visa on arrival for most tourists but do check your visa requirements.
- Getting around: trains reach all major cities in Hokkaido as do public buses. For more independence and flexibility we recommend hiring a car.
- Vaccinations: you won't usually need any specific vaccines before traveling to Japan but check current advice.
- Currency: the currency is the Japanese yen ¥. $1 converts to around ¥110, £1 to around ¥150, and €1 is ¥122.
- Tipping culture: tipping is not expected in Japan. Your final bill includes everything including tips.
- Accommodation: we love Booking.com especially now that they've introduced their #TravelProud certificate to hotels that have completed training to show they are welcoming to everyone!
- Sightseeing and adventure: for simple day trips we use GetYourGuide because it's easy to use and usually covers the main sites you'll want to check out.
Read more travel adventures like this in our book!
We've published our very own gay travel book called, ‘Out in the World'. It has all our practical safety tips, first-hand advice, and travel stories from some of our favorite destinations.
We hope it inspires you to have a fun and safe trip!
Click on the book to order:
For more inspiration:
- Use our gay travel itinerary for Japan to plan your trip
- Read our gay guide to Hiroshima
- Research the best gay friendly hotels in Tokyo
- Read what we rate to be the best traditional Japanese foods
- Read all about our Geisha transformation experience in Tokyo
- Check out our gay travel guide to Osaka
- For a more tropical Japanese experience read our Yaeyama Islands gay travel guide