Tbilisi is home to Horoom Nights – the largest gay party in the Caucasus, a region notorious for its poor reputation towards LGBTQ people. This is our experience of what it was like partying at this awesome gay club in Georgia.
We knew nothing about gay Georgia before our visit, so we came here with few expectations. We left wanting to return. We were captivated by this former Soviet country. It surprised us at every turn with its unspoiled beauty, rich cultural heritage, and landscapes like something out of a fairy tale.
When it comes to gay life in Georgie, society is conservative. Life for LGBTQ locals is not easy. Homophobia is rife. The unyielding ‘Face Control’ entry policy outside most queer venues is a stark reminder of this.
Despite this, we were pleasantly surprised to find a bustling gay scene in Tbilisi with several queer venues, including the largest gay party in the Caucasus called Horoom Nights…
‘Feis Control!'
“Will he let us in Seby?! We followed all their online instructions so it should be ok, right? Do we smile at him? Should we camp it up a bit and hold hands? Or just stand next to each other, subdued, avoiding all eye contact with anyone?”
I’ll never forget the anticipation as we stood in that queue for Horoom Nights. The intensity of the moment, wondering whether we'd be allowed in, sent shivers down my spine.
As we inched closer to the front of the line, memories of the preparation we underwent to even secure a spot here flooded my mind. We had heard so much about Horoom Nights while planning this trip – an extraordinary queer techno party at the famed Bassiani club in Tbilisi, hailed as ‘the largest gay party in the Caucasus', accommodating up to 1,200 revelers.
So of course, we had to check it out. However, our research quickly revealed that you can’t just turn up and expect to be let in.
We first had to create profiles on the Bassiani website and undergo verification. The process demanded an array of personal details, including our passport numbers and social media profiles.
Seby grumbled throughout the application process, questioning the need to divulge so much personal information just to attend a gay club. I reminded him that these stringent measures were in place to ensure our safety. Georgia has a history of homophobic violence, and the Bassiani club aimed to protect the LGBTQ community by filtering out potential threats. So, any overt homophobia on our social media profiles would be picked up on and our applications automatically rejected. Understanding the rationale, Seby forgave the intrusive bureaucracy.
After a few days, we received a notification confirming our verified accounts, granting us the privilege to pre-order tickets for the upcoming Horoom Nights party. I felt so excited receiving that email: it was like we were gay superheroes being admitted into this exclusive underground VIP club!
Yet, having a ticket did not guarantee us entry. We still had to pass the infamous Feis Kontrol – a Soviet hangover where the bouncer’s snap decision determined our fate…
“We’re next in the queue Seby. Let’s agree to keep a neutral expression, don’t smile, and just act cool. We got this!”
The moment of truth arrived.
The imposing bouncer, his stoic gaze unwavering, scrutinized us from head to toe, assessing our worthiness.
Eventually, he nodded and turned round to open the door, granting us passage.
WE DID IT! We got in!
Well, we only got a few meters in before a second bouncer stopped us and asked for our phones. We gave them to him, and he put a sticker over the cameras to cover them…and voila behold, the famous Bassiani Selfie:
We looked at each other wondering what on earth we were going to encounter in Bassiani that required such secrecy!
He then told us to read and agree on their entry rules – kind of like Tyler Durden’s ‘The first rule of Fight Club is that you do not talk about Fight Club!’
The Bassiani rules were not quite on that level. These rules are in place to safeguard the anonymity of patrons some of whom were forced to live in the closet for fear of their families or employers finding out about their sexuality. Hence the stickers placed on our camera phones to remind us that photos and videos are strictly prohibited!
Entering Bassiani felt like we were in a post-apocalyptic Berlin-style underground club. We passed through a labyrinth of raw concrete rooms and dimly lit corridors, descending deeper into the enigmatic space.
There were no guiding signs, but the hypnotic throb of techno music acted as our North Star, guiding us to the dancefloor.
The atmosphere was electric, charged with a palpable sense of liberation and raw energy. The air was infused with the heat of topless bodies all around us moving to the rhythm of the techno beats. You could cut the sexual tension with a knife!
We got a couple of drinks and then headed to the dancefloor.
From the corner of my eye, I saw two topless guys who had been making out on the dancefloor head to another room, which was pitch-black save for some subtle lighting – the darkroom.
Our Georgian friend, Giorgi explained to us:
“Most guys here live with their homophobic families in small Soviet-style apartment blocks so they can never host a Grindr date. Bassiani is one of the few safe spaces where they can come and make out freely with their partner without fearing any repercussions”.
Well, that explained all the bureaucracy and strict rules!
We continued dancing to the techno beats that Bassiani Club is so renowned for, losing track of time as the night unfolded.
Eventually, in the early hours of the following morning, we called it a night and walked back to our hotel room through the streets of Tbilisi. We both agreed it was an awesome evening and worth all the effort to come here.
But on that walk back to our hotel we also realised just how fortunate and privileged we are to have grown up in a far more accepting part of the world. One with plenty of safe spaces for queer people to meet and be tender with each other. And one where we don’t need to have our social media profiles scrutinized before we are granted permission to enter a gay club!
For more about gay life in Georgia read our interview with Giorgi about what it's like growing up gay in Tbilisi.
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Top experiences in Georgia for gay travelers
Trekking through the Kazbegi mountains was our highlight. We were mesmerized by the diverse landscapes of valleys, pine forests, and waterfalls. We also loved getting lost in Tbilisi’s charming old town where each turn brought us to hidden courtyards, bustling cafes, and vibrant markets.
And then there’s the food. The Georgian cuisine is DIVINE with mouth-watering highlights like khinkali (Georgian dumplings), khachapuri (Georgian cheese bread), and Stefan’s personal favorite – badrijani nigvzit (fried eggplants stuffed with walnut and garlic, topped with pomegranate). And, with an 8,000-year history of wine production, Georgia also offers a range of exciting wines to try.
Discovering the gay scene of Tbilisi
You haven’t experienced the gay scene of Tbilisi until you’ve partied at Horoom Nights!
Every weekend, Bassiani Club hosts this famous and exclusive gay party in Tbilisi. The rest of the Tbilisi gay scene is based mainly around the Rustaveli Metro area (just north of the old town) and includes queer venues like Success, Prinz Bar, Ambavi, and clubs like Khidi, and Cafe Gallery.
Wandering Tbilisi’s old town
We loved winding our way through the little side streets of Tbilisi’s old town, aka Abanotubani.
It has a unique otherworldly charm, making you feel cut off from the rest of the world. Unique sites to look out for include the Narikala Fortress, the Bridge of Peace, the Sulfur Baths, and Freedom Square.
Eat everything!
Georgia is a paradise for foodies.
Some of our favorites to add to your Georgia Bucket List include khinkali dumplings, the khachapuri leavened bread filled with cheese and topped with eggs, the badrijani nigvzit (fried eggplants stuffed with walnuts, cayenne pepper, and garlic), and chkmeruli – fried chicken doused in a scrumptious creamy garlic sauce.
Trekking in Kazbegi
Our standout highlight from our Georgia trip!
The Kazbegi region in Northeast Georgia is surrounded by stunning mountain scenery. The region is famous for its view from the Tsminda Sameba Church (also known as the Gergeti Trinity Church) which you can trek up to 7,218ft (2,200m).
Ananuri Castle complex
Conveniently located on the road between Tbilisi and Kazbegi.
This is a UNESCO World Heritage fortress complex which was the scene of countless feuds and battles throughout Georgia’s history. Views from the castle’s towers offer a stunning view of the Arkala River, which sparkles under the sun.
Wine tasting in the Kakheti Region
Georgia is one of the oldest wine-producing regions in the world. In fact, for some, it is regarded as the birthplace of wine!
While Georgia’s northern region is perfect for hiking, the eastern part of the country is the main wine-producing area, particularly in the Kakheti province, which has the best wineries in the country like Chateau Mere, Winery Khareba, and Chateau Mukhrani.
Visiting the David Gareja Monastery Complex
Also located in the Kakheti region, this monastery impressed us because it’s carved into a rock face!
It was first established in the 6th century by St. David Garejeli, one of thirteen Assyrian monks who came to Georgia. It’s quite remote, close to the border with Azerbaijan. The best way to visit it is on a 2-hour day trip from Tbilisi.
The ancient cave city of Vardzia
Built in the 1100s under the Erusheli Mountain to provide an underground sanctuary from the invading Mongols.
It takes around 5 hours to reach Vardzia from Tbilisi by bus, so best done as part of a tour rather than a day trip.
Georgia’s former capital of Mtskheta
Mtskheta is the oldest city in Georgia and also its former capital. Mtskheta is regarded as the birthplace of Christianity in Georgia and is home to some very significant monuments like the 11th-century Svetitskhoveli Cathedral – thought to be the burial site of Christ’s robes. The historic churches of Mtskheta are not only outstanding examples of medieval religious architecture in the Caucasus, but they are also UNESCO-listed sites certified with Outstanding Universal Value.
Mtskheta is around 15 miles north of Tbilisi so easy to reach by taxi or public transport.
Uplistsikhe Cave Town-Complex
One of the oldest urban settlements with some structures dating back to the Iron Age. It consists of several hundred rooms that have been impressively carved on an almost flat cliff face. It was once a lively trading town on the Silk Road trading route eventually eclipsed by Mtskheta (and then Tbilisi).
Uplistsikhe is located 50 miles west of Tbilisi and takes around 1.5 hours to reach.
Practical safety tips for gay travelers to Georgia
We share here all our practical tips and invaluable advice for LGBTQ travelers to Georgia that we wish we had known before our trip:
- Although homosexuality is legal, LGBTQ rights in Georgia are still pretty undeveloped. You should avoid public displays of affection unless you're in an actual gay bar or club. Older members of Georgian society are very socially conservative and frown on LGBTQ lifestyles. We didn’t encounter any problems during our time in Georgia, but equally, we didn’t openly display we were a couple in public.
- Despite being such a socially conservative and religious country, surprisingly we had few problems finding a hotel that would accommodate us (unlike other East European countries we visited). Every international hotel told us they welcome LGBTQ travelers. We stayed at the following hotels in Tbilisi, which we can confirm are welcoming to gay couples: the Vinotel Boutique Hotel, Courtyard by Marriott Tbilisi, and Fabrika Hostel.
- Check your government‘s foreign office travel advice before you go and avoid the self-proclaimed breakaway regions of South Ossetia and Abkhazia. We recommend reading the UK Foreign Office's advice for Georgia.
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- You need to read about that one time we dressed up like geisha in Tokyo…oh we were beautiful!
- Check out our article about our experience getting banned and blacklisted in Lebanon!
- One of our favorite stories: how we first met in 2009 in London
- Read Stefan's story about the Varosi Ghosttown in Famagusta, Cyprus