The Kuang Si Falls in Luang Prabang, Laos, is one of the most stunning backdrops that now proudly adorns our living room wall back home. It was a beautiful day out with our Laotian friends that will stay in our hearts forever!
We arrived in Laos with little expectations, knowing little about this hidden gem. Yet, to say we were blown away would be an understatement.
Our day trip to the alluring Kuang Si Waterfall near Luang Prabang gifted us an unforgettable image that now proudly adorns our living room wall, a testament to the beauty we encountered.
Laos, a landlocked country in Southeast Asia, shares its borders with China to the North, Myanmar to the northwest, Thailand to the southwest, Cambodia to the south, and Vietnam to the east. Each neighbor has influenced Laos, forging strong cultural ties over time. Notably, the French colonial period from 1893 to 1953 also left a lasting mark.
As a gay couple exploring Laos, we encountered no issues. The Laotians are relaxed, tolerant, and respectful people who embrace us wholeheartedly.
“Here goes nothing!“
Written in loving memory of our dear friend, Somphorn Boupha who sadly passed away from cancer in June 2019.
Somphorn was a stalwart in the LGBTQ community of Laos and his memory will forever live on in our hearts.
“Hop on guys. I’ve packed us a chilled case of beers sitting in my freezer all night.”
It was a bright Sunday morning in Luang Prabang when our friend, Somphorn, picked us up in his car. We met Somphorn the night before in the gay friendly bar, Lao Lao Gardens (now permanently closed). He was the owner and excited to show us around.
He had taken us to various bars where we’d made a whole heap of new friends including a few gay travelers who Somphorn had also connected with earlier that evening and wanted to show around. Towards the end of the night, Somphorn had suggested that our little gay group visit the Kuang Si Falls together the following day and he would be only too happy to take us. We jumped at the chance!
“I’m more a Gin and Tonic kind of gal, Somphorn, but chilled beers will do me fine” – my Seby always trying to keep it classy…
Once inside Somphorn’s car, we left the city and drove for around 50 minutes through the picturesque countryside of Luang Prabang until we reached the Kuang Si Falls. We left the car in the parking area and then grabbed our rucksacks.
Somphorn warned us that the journey to the Falls would involve a short 20-minute trek through the jungle. But anything with my Seby inevitably becomes a 2-hour performance for whatever reason.
In this case, it was the bugs. Seby can’t stand bugs. Especially spiders.
He has an innate fear that a spider has buried itself in his clothes and is spinning an imaginary web around his body, secretly laying its eggs. We had to stop every few minutes to reassure my poor Seby that everything was ok whilst he flapped his hands manically around his body to bat away all the imaginary cobwebs. It sure does make for some pretty hilarious video footage though…
“Stefan put down the damn camera phone away and go ahead of me please!”
We eventually caught up with Somphorn and his friends who had already reached the lower waterfall pool area.
By this point we were parched, dripping with sweat (and covered in imaginary spider babies buried deep in our skins according to Seby). We were only too happy to go into the refreshing water to cool down.
Suddenly we heard a splash! Then another…followed by another.
We looked up and saw red blurs of color falling through the sky into the water next to us! It was a group of young monks dressed in their striking scarlet robes jumping from the tiers above. As it was a Sunday, the young monks were permitted a day off to visit the Falls.
Taking Somphorn’s lead, we climbed up to the top of the cascades to jump down the waterfall into the refreshing pool of water below.
At the top we had a glorious 360-degree view of the thick jungle we’d just hiked through. It was quite something. As far as my eye could see we were surrounded by dense vegetation.
Then came the moment to jump!
Waiting in line behind the monk boys, each person went to the edge, then leaped out into the air, dropping several meters into the pool of water below.
It’s completely safe, but I confess I have a fear of heights – specifically drops.
There’s something so disconcerting about jumping out into a large pool of water from a significant height, which puts the fear of God in me!
Seby could see the look of fear on my face.
“Come on, Stefan. If young teenage monks can do it, then you’ll be just fine!”
Seby had a point. Watching the young monk kids cry out with joy as they leaped out and dropped into the pool of water below did help alleviate my fears.
Together, Seby and I crept to the edge of that cliff.
“Here goes nothing!” I thought.
“I’ll count to 3, and then we’ll jump. Ok, Stefan?”
Seby counted us down, 3…2…1… Then out we leapt.
Adrenaline coursed through my body as we descended.
I’ve never fared too well with drops, and I tend to cry out rather loudly when I’m dropping from something, much to the amusement of others around.
We came splashing down into the pool of water below.
As we came up for breath, the young monks were pointing, smiling, and clapping at us. Somphorn rushed over to show us the picture he’d taken. It was beautiful!
It was beautiful because it captured a wonderful memory, we all shared that day.
But most importantly, it was beautiful because that same photo now hangs proudly on our living room wall back home and reminds us of our dearly departed friend, Somphorn Boupha RIP.
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Top experiences for LGBTQ travelers in Laos
From the food to the falls, pretty Luang Prabang the Mekong River, and even a small LGBTQ scene to check out. Here's our full Bucket List lowdown for you:
Kuang-Si Falls
A stunning three-tiered waterfall located 18 miles (29km) south of Luang Prabang in the middle of a jungle.
The best part is you can hike to the top and then swim in the pristine water created by the cascades – a welcome respite from the hot and humid climate.
Luang Prabang old town
The former Royal Capital of Laos until 1975, now a cutesy charming UNESCO-listed place to visit.
Despite being touristy it has retained its old-world charm. We loved visiting its bustling markets and Buddhist temples like the gilded Wat Xieng Thong, dating to the 1500s.
Gay life in Vientiane
The capital city, Vientiane is where we found the largest LGBTQ community.
The Lao Café (CCC Bar) is the only official gay bar in the entire country that we could find.
The night market of Luang Prabang
Every evening stroll through the streets of Luang Prabang was a joy!
From around 6 pm, rows of stalls would sell freshly made barbecued meats, noodle soups, spicy papaya salads, coconut pancakes, and sticky rice treats. It’s a foodie paradise.
The Living Land Farm in Luang Prabang
A half-day experience where local farmers take you through the different stages of rice production from start to finish, which included Stefan plowing a field with a water buffalo (called Suzuki). Not only is it educational but you get to support the local community.
Tamarind Restaurant cooking class
One of the most highly rated restaurant in Luang Prabang that also host daily cooking classes. They taught us to make various Laotian dishes including Mok Pa steamed fish steamed in banana leaves, stuffed lemon grass chicken, and coconut sticky rice. We still to this day use our Tamarind cooking book that they gave us as a souvenir.
Sail on the Mekong River
The main river that runs through Laos, is also the third longest in Asia.
It starts in Tibet and then snakes its way through China, Myanmar, Laos, Thailand, Cambodia, and Vietnam. Many companies offer river cruises along parts of the Mekong River which can be anything from half a day to 2 weeks long.
Visit the COPE Visitor Centre in Vientiane
During the years of the Vietnam War, the USA dropped 2.5 million tons of explosive weapons (ordnances) on Laos.
Many of these UXOs (unexplained ordnances) have exploded on innocent victims who stumbled on them by accident. COPE serves to support them and tell their story.
Laotian food
Laab (aka larb or laap) is the most famous Laotian food. It’s a minced meat salad often served raw – the meat cooks in the lime/spice juice mix. Rice is a staple in Laos, especially sticky rice.
Other Laotian foods we love include sai kok (Laotian sausage), tam mak hoong (spicy papaya salad), and baguette sandwiches – a souvenir from the days of the French colony.
A unique rice beer – Beerlao!
The country’s #1 beer is made from rice instead of malt because barley does not grow as effectively in Laos.
Rice however is the main farming activity in Laos. It’s also super refreshing, especially when served ice cold…Thum Keo!
Practical tips for gay travelers to Laos
- Laos is safe: we never faced any difficulties in Laos. The people are peaceful and avoid conflict. They are respectful and welcoming to foreigners. Violent crime is low compared to other parts of Asia we visited. We never felt uneasy anywhere. We never had any problems booking a double bed in any of the hotels or guesthouses we stayed at.
- Laotian society is conservative: despite feeling safe in Laos as a gay couple, we do need to stress that society is conservative. We get a pass to be ourselves as we are foreigners bringing tourism dollars to the country, but for locals, the situation is very different. Whilst being gay is legal, there are no anti-discrimination laws to protect the LGBTQ community and same-sex unions/marriages are not recognized…yet! As such, quite a few of the gay locals we met felt they had to lead a closeted life.
For more inspiration:
- Read our story about what it felt like chasing the Northern Lights in Iceland
- Seby's story of how he felt snorkeling with sea lion pups in the Galapagos
- You need to read about that one time we dressed up like beautiful geisha in Tokyo
- Check out our article about our experience getting banned and blacklisted at Beirut Airport in Lebanon
- You will love Seby's story of how we first met at the GAY Bar in 2009 in London