Gay Georgia travel: the ultimate gay guide for LGBTQ travelers

Whilst society in Georgia is very conservative, Tbilisi still has a vibrant gay scene to discover. The highlight is the famous and exclusive Horoom Nights on Saturday evenings at Bassiani. This is also one of the largest gay club nights in the Caucasus. Other gay/gay friendly bars in Tbilisi to discover include “Success”, “Prince”, “Ambavi”, “Khidi Club” and “Cafe Gallery”. The one thing we'd say is that “Face Control” is a big thing here, so to avoid being turned away, avoid coming in big groups and never smile at the bouncer staff outside or they won't let you in! For more, check out our gay guide to Tbilisi.

Wandering around the Old Town of Tbilisi took our breath away. When we weren’t admiring the bright colorful roofs of each building, we were off discovering a hidden gem that came in the form of cafes, restaurants, and antique shops. We couldn’t get enough of the otherworldly charm of the place, where it managed to feel totally cut off from the rest of the world. Strolling down the cobblestoned pathways, we got to see many of the must-see sights that are dotted across the city. You can even join a lovely tour of the Old Town which includes wine-tasting.

It wouldn’t be a Nomadic Boys holiday if we didn’t go and explore some nature. And you know we love a good hike. Especially when the route is as stunning as the Kazbegi region in Northeast Georgia. We did a full-day tour of the Kazbegi region, which included trekking 2,200 meters up to the Tsminda Sameba Church…the view from here is wow! It's a very satisfying trek that will see you trudging through hills, clambering over fences, and scuttering up rocky foothills to make it to the glorious summit. Though once you get there, boy is it worth it!

It's always wine o’clock in Georgia – and we jumped at the chance when we saw this opportunity up for grabs. This wine-tasting experience took us to various wineries around the stunning Kakheti region, where we got to indulge in the tastiest of wines. We also got some fabulous insight into the history of winemaking. The gay friendly tour guides were super bubbly and knowledgeable, managing to make the experience as fun as it was informative. We learned about the history of winemaking throughout the region and how it dates back over 8,000 years! To top the experience off, we had a delicious authentic Georgian meal.

The David Gareja monastery complex is about a 2-hour drive from Tbilisi and can be reached as a fun day trip. Be prepared for a bumpy ride toward the complex. Once you arrive at the monastery, the only way to get around is to walk so pack some good hiking shoes. It is totally worth spending the best part of a day here as there is so much to explore. Churches, chapels, and living quarters have been carved from the rock face, giving the feeling that the town has grown from the Earth itself. The monastery has been around since the 6th century, having been set up by an Assyrian monk, known as Saint David – hence the name!

We devoted a whole day to exploring Vardzia, a city of caves. At first, it looks like a large mountain range, but explore inside and you’ll find banquet halls and stunning chapels. Make sure you pick up an audio guide at the start, as there is no site information throughout the monastery. Also bear in mind that you are going to be doing a lot of walking, and scrambling up a rock, so wear sturdy trainers. A highlight of the monastery is the Church of Assumption. From its arched entrance to the bells which hang on the outside, every detail feels like it has been decorated by angels.

Having once worn the title of Georgia’s capital city, Mtskheta draws in thousands of tourists each year charmed by its medieval castles, churches, quaint cafes, and looming mountains overlooking the city. Arriving early during our day trip to Mtskheta, we immediately decided to hit up the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral – one of the biggest in the country. For centuries, this building was the central point for Christianity in Georgia, and it is widely believed that a robe that once belonged to Jesus lies buried within the temple! Elsewhere in the town is a beautiful restaurant, Gujari, which often holds live performances of Georgian music.

Hidden between ice-capped mountains and rolling hillsides of the Svaneti region, lies a cluster of villages known as Ushguli. With buildings made from stone, wandering around the area felt like taking a stroll through a bygone era. Beautifully ominous, we were struck by the image of the tiny village homes that appeared to be swallowed up by the oppressive cliffs which surrounded them. It wasn’t until quite recently that the region was cut off from civilization altogether. Though it is still known as the most remote village in Georgia, it is becoming more popular with travelers and easier to visit as part of a tour.

Similar to Vardzia, Uplistsikhe is a rock-hewn town, which contains cut-out structures, tunnels, and staircases. Inside lie dwellings, banquet halls, and churches. We spent about 2-3 hours weaving through all the openings we could find, amazed by the majesty of the carvings, as well as the panoramic views of the stunning sparse landscape. In pre-Christian days, Uplistsikhe was the religious center of the nation, with temples built to worship goddesses of the Sun. Though it soon became the home of Christian kings and a place for trade between Europe and Asia. It's a fascinating spot you can enjoy as a day trip from Tbilisi.

In every couple, there is a queen of the castle and there is the naughty rascal. We’ll let you decide which one is which between Seb and me (hint, I look good in a crown). So, a visit to the Ananuri castle complex as a romantic venture is a must! Having been the scene of countless feuds and battles throughout centuries, the dramatics of the complex’s history still oozes from its walls. You can still see parts of the castle is in ruins from fighting that has gone on in the past. Views from inside the castle’s towers offer a stunning view of the Arkala river, which sparkles under the sun.

The first sight of the Black Sea is truly overwhelming. We spent hours dipping in and out of the water and have never felt so refreshed from a swim. The beach itself is very rocky, so not ideal for sunbathing, but the feel of the water alone makes it worth hopping over the rocks and stones embedded in the sand. When you’ve finished taking a swim, explore the city of Batumi. There are many ways to get around, though we recommend hiring a bike. Downtown is known for its various ice-cream parlors, perfect for when you go during the summer. There are also various public buildings you can admire, painted in lovely coral colors!

Coda Tours organizes a deluxe gay tour of the Caucasus, which includes a visit to Georgia along with Azerbaijan and Armenia. Starting in Baku, Azerbaijan, this tour is a fabulous way to explore three gorgeous countries in the Caucasus region. The Georgia leg of this gay tour includes visiting Tbilisi, the Kakheti wine region, the ancient city of Mtskheta, multiple monasteries, and beautiful churches. This 12-day tour includes luxurious accommodation at four or five-star hotels throughout, led by a very experienced gay tour guide. Check the Coda Tours website to see when the next one is being organized!

Served piping hot, the khinkali is essentially a dumpling with a meat filling. It can be eaten either plain, sprinkled with spices, or black pepper, and is a delicious side dish for your main. The khinkali traditionally comes as minced meat (usually beef, pork, lamb, or even goose in some areas!), wrapped in dough. The traditional way to eat it is to hold it from its stem, then bite into it, suck out the juice to prevent it from spilling all over you (ooh er!), then gobble up the rest of it. You can eat it with utensils if you don't like eating with your hands, but you'll attract a few side-eyes from fellow Georgian diners!

No one takes cheese and bread more seriously than the Georgians. So seriously that they claim you shouldn't even make Khachapuri if you are sad as it will affect the taste of the bread! As big lovers of all things cheesy, we couldn’t get enough of this famous Georgian national dish. It's made by using leavened bread which is filled with cheese (usually Georgian sulguni cheese, more on that later), eggs, and sometimes other ingredients like potatoes depending on which region's type of Khachapuri you are trying. Khachapuri is usually round, but in the Adjarian region, it's shaped to look a bit like a boat.

It’s not just the perfect emoji for a naughty message to a loved one, the eggplant is a delicious addition that can give any dish a nice kick. The Georgian Badrijani Nigvzit dish takes the humble eggplant, fries it, and stuffs it with walnuts, cayenne pepper, and garlic. What you get is a simple dish that has a perfect balance of sweet and savory. Other types of Badrijani are also available, where the eggplant is stuffed with different ingredients. If you see the word Badrijani on a menu, then you know it will be something with eggplant – good knowledge for any vegetarians traveling to Georgia!

As you might have noticed in these last two photos, we learned to cook some local food while we were in Georgia, and Chkmeruli was one of our favorites. Fried chicken doused in a scrumptious creamy garlic sauce, the Chkmeruli is a quick and tasty dish that embodies Georgian culture. You can eat it as a delicious starter, or as your main meal – Chkmeruli works great with potatoes or pieces of bread. Each restaurant may have its own unique recipe, so inquire when you arrive as to what you can expect from the dish. Some places like to make it super spicy so you'll want to be careful if that's not your thing.

Georgians are lovers of wine and the country has been producing excellent wines for over 8,000 years. With wineries dotted across the land and even locals often having their own small vine, it is unusual to not have a glass of either the red or white stuff by your side. Most Georgians feel particularly strongly about their favorite kind of wine and will reverently tell you their opinions on which wine compliments each dish. If you aren’t a connoisseur, the best thing to do is just smile, nod, and follow whatever guidance they give you. After all, any wine is good wine in our eyes. 

Georgians love dishes that brim with colors and a wide mixture of textures. From the sharp crunch of vegetables to the subtlest tinge of spice, Ajapsandali embodies all of this. Made from eggplants, tomatoes, bell peppers, garlic, and cilantro, this dish can fill you up for a whole evening. It's mostly a dish to be eaten in summer since that's when the main ingredients are in season. In some parts of the country, you might find variations made with potatoes and chili peppers as well, but it's pretty much guaranteed to be excellent no matter where you are!

At first glance, you might think you’re being handed a wax candle, but Churchkhela is actually a delicious candy. They definitely reminded us of the candles they light upon the altar at Church though! Churchkhela is made by threading almonds, walnuts, hazelnuts, chocolate, and sometimes raisins onto a string, then dipping the string in thick grape juice. They're then hung up to dry, as you can see in the photo, with bunches of them hanging up waiting to be sold.

Usually served up in a cute earthenware pot, Lobio can be enjoyed either hot or cold. Made from a mixture of mashed kidney beans with garlic and onions, it's generally a tad spicy, though never overpowering. Sometimes Lobio might be made with meat as well, so if you're vegetarian you'll need to make sure you're eating one made just from vegetables. Like most of Georgia's dishes, Lobio recipes vary depending on the region. It's a yummy dish to have as an appetizer or as a healthy snack. It is generally accompanied by a crunchy cornbread called mchadi.

Kubdari is made with pieces of Khachapuri bread that are bursting with succulent meats, usually lamb or pork, spices, and onions. Originating in the northwest Svaneti province, Kubdari is served as a starter or side dish but can be enough to fill you up by itself. What's particularly unique about kubdaris is that traditionally, they are made with cannabis leaves or cannabis seed paste, so when trying one, be sure to check this!

Spoiler alert! Georgians love cheese. And this cheese, called Sulguni, is a true delight. With a sour, almost salty taste, the cheese is linked to the Samgelero region and is made from either cow or buffalo milk. We love spreading it on bread or having it alongside, you guessed it, a large glass of wine – red of course! Sulguni is a proud creation from the Georgians and one of the most famous cheeses in the country. It is known as the ‘quick cheese’ as it only takes 3 days to mature after being produced. Make sure you try some, perhaps at the cheese festival we mentioned earlier?

Travel insurance: You never know when something might go wrong while traveling so we recommend ensuring you have adequate travel insurance before heading to Georgia. We always use (and love) Heymondo Travel Insurance because their cover is so comprehensive and affordable. Plus, it's easy to make a claim online if the need arises.

How to get there: If you're flying to Georgia then you will either be landing at the Tbilisi International Airport or Kutaisi Airport which mainly serves the budget airlines. There's an excellent bus service to get from Kutaisi Airport to Tbilisi or other parts of Georgia but be warned it takes about 4 hours to get to Tbilisi from Kutaisi. If you fly into Tbilisi Airport then you can get a private transfer to your accommodation. It's also possible to travel to Georgia by land from Turkey, Armenia, Azerbaijan or Russia.

Visa requirements: If you are traveling from most European countries, America, Canada, Australia, and New Zealand then you won't need a visa to stay in Georgia for up to 90 days as a tourist. If you're traveling from another country or just want to make sure, you can check your personal visa requirements for Georgia here.

Getting around: If you don't want to join a tour then getting around within the country of Georgia (outside of the main cities) can be a challenge. Road conditions are poor and it's difficult to buy fuel without specialized knowledge so we don't recommend hiring a car. Trains are probably your best bet if traveling independently but stow any valuables under your seats and exercise caution.

Vaccinations: Before traveling to Georgia you should be up to date with routine vaccinations like measles, mumps, and chickenpox, as well as getting vaccinated for Hepatitis A. Some travelers may also need vaccinations for Hepatitis B and rabies, depending on what you'll be doing. Have a look at the CDC website for the most up-to-date information before you travel to Georgia.

Currency: The currency in Georgia is called the Georgian Lari. The currency code is GEL and the symbol for lari is ₾. $1 US converts to about ₾2.96, €1 is worth about ₾3.29, and £1 converts to around ₾3.81.

Tipping culture: Tipping in Georgia is usually up to the discretion of the customer, so you can tip a few lari if you feel you received good service but it is not expected of you. Most restaurants, cafes, and bars will include a service charge on the bill so you don't need to tip any more than that unless you think the service was really exceptional.

Internet access: There are places you can connect to free WiFi in most of Georgia's major cities, especially Tbilisi. If you are going to spend much time outside of the cities or know you will need a lot of bandwidth then it might be worth bringing a portable WiFi device with you.

Online privacy: There isn't any internet censorship or bans in place in Georgia, so you'll be able to use gay dating apps like Grindr and Scruff while you're visiting. If you prefer to browse the internet anonymously then we recommend using ExpressVPN, as it's a very affordable and reliable way to keep your online activities private.

Accommodation: When looking for accommodation in Georgia we recommend using Booking.com. They have so many great options to choose from, many places with free cancellation if needed. Their online customer service is excellent and available 24/7, plus it's super easy to book online.

Sightseeing and adventure: We also love using GetYourGuide to find all sorts of fun activities and tours to do within Georgia. This is another company that has a very easy-to-use online booking process and also has really good 24/7 online customer support.

When to visit: The weather in Georgia is generally nice all year round. Winters are mild although summer can be quite hot and humid. The shoulder seasons of spring or autumn are probably the best time to visit as the weather is nice but not extreme, there won't be as many other tourists and you'll also be surrounded by either spring flowers or the changing autumn leaves.